N9608*0 Roper Range - Instructions

Removed the back access panel of the stove. Removed 2 screws holding the temp sensor, replaced temp sensor, Installed back panel. Done 19 minutes.

simple replacement

That should have been an easy repair according to previous responders that replaced this part.

The first issue is the Phillips head screw that fastens the sensor to the back of the oven was frozen and I had to drill it out.

The second issue was I could not pull the connector through the hole where the sensor wires pass. I decided to cut the sensor wires and use wire connectors to attach the sensor as instructed in the sheet provided with the sensor.

NOTE: You MUST use third party "gray" colored wire connectors that you can purchase in a hardware store. - the connectors provided DO NOT have a metal insert and even after several attempts would not grab the wires.

Another caution is you should use a self-tapping sheet metal screw to fasten the sensor to the oven wall if you encounter the same frozen screw that I did!

After I installed the sensor I tested the oven but found that this DID NOT solve the problem! I needed to order the "hidden" bake element that is mounted under the bottom oven wall and also the broil/bake element that is mounted inside of the oven on the top. See my comments for the Bake Element (bottom)

My 11 year old son and I ordered the parts we needed. Saw the GREAT easy installation video, It even was attached to my confirmation. After the parts got here him and I easily took off the old belt and clip, installed the new ones (after watching the viedo again) and we where done. You would have thought we fixed the space shuttle or something because we both smiled all day. My son also told every one that he and his mom fixed the dryer all by ourselves. Costed me only $40 dollars for the parts. I couldn't have even called a repair man out there for that. Thanks soo much.

I lifted the stove top and cut the two wire connected to the block. Attached the new wire connectors, new block and checked to make sure it was working. The part that took the longest was getting the screw out of the mounting brracked(it was corroded on). I sprayed some WD40 and waited 5 minuts, it came loose. Then i mounted the new bracket and installed the burner. double checked everything and lowered the top. Done

Followed instruction on web site

Took the old one out and replaced it with the new one.

Had to guess at replacement (dryer too old to still be listed) picture and measurements looked right; it was, Old one out--new one slid in, great that it was available.

I watched the video that showed how to do the repair. I did exactly what I was shown on the video, and everything worked the very first time ! It was GREAT ! No more squeaking idle pulley !

I own 33 ranges I've worked on the last 20 years. So it was easy for me, but I have a couple of tips if you've never done it. Not all ranges are the same so examen yours all around the control panel. look for the hidden screws. Don't just dive in. Some ranges must have the oven door removed, then lay on the floor & take out the screws under the control panel. Some doors, put in broil position & pull straight up. If you have a built in range, like many of mine. You can use a small clamp to hold the top up next to the cabinet. Don't buy any controls until after you've done a resistance load check. Thermostat bulbs may have a bracket on to top inside of the oven that must be unscrewed & removed. Warning; the bulb is charged with alcohol that could blind you so be mindful & work gingerly with it.

I did the repair following your instructions and it went very well. Now the temperature is working good , but the oven is heating up very slow. So now what should I do to fix the oven?

burner was shorting out replaced part works great

Replacement was simple. Old switch was easily removed. Once I swapped the wires from old to new we were in business. One thing I would do differently than the included directions called for. I wish I had waited until I had installed the new switch to set the shaft length. I snapped off one too many sections of the shaft after measuring the original shaft as recommended. If I had installed the replacement switch and then set the shaft length it would have been more accurate. Everything still works but one knob is now slightly lower than the other three.

loosened the screw holding the block pulled it out toget to wire cut it about 4 inches long followed the inst.with block kit and it was a breeze. burner working fine now should have did it sooner.

I shut off the breaker checked for power then cut old plugs making sure to allow a little slack. Tightened down wire nuts put on a couple wraps of electrical tape and that was it. Burners work great now I would reccomend this product to anyone with a similar problem.