MGR6772BDS Maytag Range - Instructions

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

Waited for my husband to do it, but when he didn't, I tried it. Very simple! Just pulled the old gasket out of the pinch pin holes in the door, then replaced it. Tuck the one end into the hole at the bottom of the door, then match up the little pinch pins on the gasket with the holes in the door - matches up perfectly! Be sure to tuck in each of pinch pins till they sort of "snap" into each hole. Took me 5 minutes, tops. Works great now, no more lost heat around the edge of the door.

From reading other reviews i thought I would have to dis-assemble the door but when I saw the new part I realized I would not have to, simply pop the beveled clips w/pocket knife and pop in the new seal clips. the ends tucked very nicely, an 80+ yr. old would have no trouble if they had their wits.

Put a new one in.

Maytag Gemini Freestanding Gas Double Range MGR6775BDS-Impotant Note: This Maytag Gemini is a double oven-so there is a smaller oven on top and a larger oven on the bottom. In the small top over, there are two igniters (broiler igniter on top of the oven and a bake igniter on the bottom). The igniters look identical (like the broil igniter) but have different connectors, and therefore different part numbers on the site . The top broil igniter is WP7400-7966 and the bottom bake igniter is WP7400-7399. They look identical but have different connectors. The repair was simple. Shut off the electric and gas to the stove. Remove the back panel (5 screws), and disconnect the igniter. The oven igniter is below the broil igniter for the top oven. Inside the small oven, remove the heat deflector cover (two screws right in front). Now remove the heat deflector (two wing nuts on top of the burner). Now remove the burner. There are three screws, one right in front (by the door), one in the bracket by the igniter and a third holding a small plate by the flame adjustment valve. Once the three screws are removed, fish the igniter wire (that you unattached in the back of the stove) through the stove wall into the oven area. Slide the burner a little to the left and remove it from the oven. The igniter is attached to the burner by two screws. Remove the igniter and attach the new one. As another tip, one of the screws would not unscrew (stripped in the metal). Maybe this is because of the constant heat and cooling of the metal. I had to saw off the old screw and reattached the igniter with my own screw and nut. Fish the new igniter wire through to back of the oven. Attach it to the connector in the back of the range. Reverse the directions to re-install the burner, heat deflector, heat defector cover and rear panel (on the back of the range).

Simply remove two screws take old one off and line up and put new one on and replace the two screws. Couldn't have been easier.

Change Temp Sensor-Turn off the power or unplug unit, remove oven racks, removed the two screws that hold temp sensor, pull out and unplug.
Change Igniter-Remove two front screws holding bottom cover on and lift out of place, next remove the two wing nuts holding square plate on, next remove the three screws holding gas tube in place, remove gas tube pulling wire carefully through and unplug it. Remove the two screws that hold igniter to gas tube. I found it easier to pull stove out and remove back bottom left square cover held in with four screws to fish the igniter cable back through.
Oven now heats to 350 in 8 minutes.

Easy instal most of time was taking off and replacing back panel Found watching how to videos helpful

Shut off gas supply
Pulled stove away from wall removed spark ignigtor box .
Installed new one .
No problem.
Good for another 10 years

Turned off the gas line & unplugged the oven. Pulled oven away from the wall to access the back of the oven. Removed the back panel (screws) on the oven & the few inner oven parts covering the broken igniter. Sprayed WD 40 on the threads of screws holding the old igniter in place. Removed old igniter screws with a nutdriver & unplugged it from the back of the oven. Installed the PartSelect replacement igniter & plugged it into the wiring receptacle. Reassembled the parts covering the new igniter & screwed the back panel back onto the oven. Plugged oven in, turned the gas back on & pushed the oven back into place. Tested the new igniter. Woohoo, oven works again & wife if happy!

Just removed the shield (2 wing nuts) than the burner (1 Screw). THe back needs to be removed to unplug the igniter. I than reversed the process until I got to the plug and found that I had 2 male ends. I than had to remove everything and go back to square one until I find the part with the correct end (which should be Female) I'd check this before getting too deep into the repair.

Removed door, oven racks, and cover at the bottom. Very easy to get to the actual ignitor. The more challenging part is getting to the back of the oven where the igniter plugs in. Once we got the oven pulled out enough to access the bottom of the back panel, we removed the back panel....just a couple screws and it slides up. Unclipping and removing the old igniter was easy. It's a bit of a challenge to feed the new igniter's wires under the insulation and up over a small ledge and out a small hole that's smaller than a quarter. Small hands help. You can avoid the whole part of attaching it in the back of you clip the wires of your old igniter and new one. Then use ceramic wire nuts to connect the new igniter the the old one's wires. We decided not to do that since it was already done once that way and figured it would be good to have fresh wires clipped in at the back. Overall, fairly easy repair especially if you decide to connect the igniter with ceramic wire nuts.

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

I was pleased with how the job went.
It took longer than expected because I am not really a "do it yourselfer", but I studied the door and reread how others managed the repair several times.
There were more screws than mentioned here.
Someone said 10 screws but there were 12.
In the end I was pleased and surprised how simple the job was, but recommend others read carefully what others have written. I didn't but learned one must.

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!