MGR6875ADS27 Maytag Range - Instructions

I determined the bake igniter was not working. If the bake ignitor does not work, the sensing unit to turn on the gas does not activate. I examined the bake igniter it was blacked significantly in one spot. There were no apperant cracks in it. I did a web search for the part and ordered it. Three days later it was delivered. Take pictures of each step if you fell the need. Pull stove away from wall turn off the gas, unplug power cord, remove panel in back of stove that covers the electrical, unplug the ignitor/element. Move to the front of the range and remove the oven rack. Remove the cover over burner tubes, it secured with several screws. Remove wing nuts for heat shield. Carefully remove burner tubes along with the attached ignitor/element. You will have to carefully guide the ignitor wires out with the burner tubes. Unscrew ignitor from the burner tube, attach new ignitor/element. Reverse the steps.

Remove two screws back panel and remove sensor two screws inside top oven.

Simple process. Pull the unit out approximately 6 inches. Remove 2 phillips head screws on the left side panel which is about 3 inches wide and runs from the top to the bottom of the unit. No need to remove the panel on the right. Two hex head screws hold each hinge in and are visible once the oven door is removed by opening the door about 20 degrees and lifting it off the hinges. Once the door is off, simply remove the two hex head/self tapping screws holding each hinge in place and remove the hinges from the rear of the front of the oven. Reverse the process to install the new hinges. Do not over tighten but remember they are self tapping and need just a bit of tightening until the hings feels solid. Replace the door by sliding it over the hinges and you're done.

Once I saw the spring clips on the new door seal, it was easy to understadn how to remove the old seal and install the new one. Looks nice !

Removed the two screws pulled the element out and unhooked the wires then used one of the included adapters to reinstall the new sensor then screwed the two screws back in to secure the sensor. Everything works fine now.

unscrewed screws in the back of the stove. inside the stove, replaced the old bake igniter with the new one and connected the electrical wire in the back of the stove.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Easy to install. Thank you for such a good product!

I took out the old and replaced with the new. The hardest part was getting that tiny halogen bulb in that tiny little hole. It took longer to take the oven racks out and put them back in than to make the repairs.

Just remove the old for new

Replaced racks. Ordering parts was very easy,fast and received them in three days. Now all set for Thanksgiving. Really appreciate the service.

shook bottle and painted waited a day and repeated

removing the screws holding the burner together was impossible. they snapped off and I had to drill them out. that took the most time. after that it was 100% easy hookup. clean up of the burner was done with a wire brush. good quality products. thanks.

1. Opened oven door and removed bottom covers plates to expose igniter and removed it. 2. Located hole in oven rear where the igniter connector and leads went through. 3. Pulled oven forward to allow access to rear bottom left cover plate where leads came through and removed plate to obtain access. 4. Installed replacement igniter in place of old iginter and ran its leads and connector through the oven hole. 5. Since the new igniter connector was unlike the old one, I had to replace the new igniter connector with the old one. Allowing sufficient lengths to properly make splices, I cut the igniter connectors off so that I could eventually match the mating connecter to the oven control circuit. I used a wire striper and pliers to make good splices. I covered the splices with plastic wire nuts normally used for insulating splices. I left the splices and the igniter connector outside the oven back for protection from the heat inside the oven. 6. After ensuring that oven insulation material was positioned to essentially cover the hole where the connector wires go through, I replaced the cover plate at rear of the oven and the cover plates inside the oven. 7. I checked oven for proper operation and found it now to be OK. Range was returned to normal position..problem corrected.

This repair is only if your old igniters are working but they are so cracked that the spark is not going where it should be. TURN OF THE GAS SUPPLY VALVE BEHIND THE STOVE AND UNPLUG THE STOVE FROM THE WALL.I had to drill out most of the old screws to remove the burners plates because of all the old baked on spills. I bought replacement screws when I bought the igniters because I felt this would be a problem. My repair time included scrubbing the stove top. Once all the parts that make up the stovetop burners were removed (NOTE WHICH BURNER PLATE CAME FROM WHICH LOCATION, THEY ARE DIFFERENT SIZES) and I could see the pipes beneath the stove top, I cleared off the top and used a spreading knife to push in the clips on the left and right sides near the front of the stove. It was thin enough to fit in the space between the stove top and main body. Push the clip inward and pull up on the stove top and it will let you lift the top. Be careful because it may release suddenly so be gentle. I also removed the top section of the back of the stove to access the igniter terminal block. A few screws, nothing more. Be sure to take note of which wire goes where. (They are color coded). Unplug the old igniters. it is easiest to cut he old igniters off of the end of the wires and pull out three wires leaving only one. At the back left of the top of the stove there is a rectangle channel that the wires are running through. There is a clip that holds the wires loosely together. Remove the wires from that clip or the next part will be difficult. Run each of the new igniter wires through their respective holes in the stove top. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE WIRE INSULATION IN ANY WAY. When you put the burner plates back on the igniters will be sandwiched in between the plate and the stove top. Using electrical tape, tape the connector ends of the new wires to the one remaining old wire. Gently pull the old wire through the rectangle channel, pulling from the back of the stove. Take your time so no damage occurs. Once the wires are pulled, plug them in to their respective terminals and place the wires in the loose clip. Make sure the new wires are not crossing the pipe openings where the burners are located. You can close the stove top and double check there are no wires across any of the burner openings. Re-assemble the burners and plug in the stove. DO NOT OPEN THE GAS VALVE. Turn on the stove and check to make sure the new igniters are working properly and sparking to the burner plate assemblies. You should see a controlled spark. Do not touch the burner plates or igniters or you will be shocked. If all are working then you may put the back cover on and open the gas valve. If none are working make sure the stove is plugged in. If some are working then check the connection on the terminal block and the wire insulation. If they are still not working then you've got bigger fish to fry. Good luck my friend. Happy fixing!