MGR6775BDB19 Maytag Range - Instructions

shook bottle and painted waited a day and repeated

This repair is only if your old igniters are working but they are so cracked that the spark is not going where it should be. TURN OF THE GAS SUPPLY VALVE BEHIND THE STOVE AND UNPLUG THE STOVE FROM THE WALL.I had to drill out most of the old screws to remove the burners plates because of all the old baked on spills. I bought replacement screws when I bought the igniters because I felt this would be a problem. My repair time included scrubbing the stove top. Once all the parts that make up the stovetop burners were removed (NOTE WHICH BURNER PLATE CAME FROM WHICH LOCATION, THEY ARE DIFFERENT SIZES) and I could see the pipes beneath the stove top, I cleared off the top and used a spreading knife to push in the clips on the left and right sides near the front of the stove. It was thin enough to fit in the space between the stove top and main body. Push the clip inward and pull up on the stove top and it will let you lift the top. Be careful because it may release suddenly so be gentle. I also removed the top section of the back of the stove to access the igniter terminal block. A few screws, nothing more. Be sure to take note of which wire goes where. (They are color coded). Unplug the old igniters. it is easiest to cut he old igniters off of the end of the wires and pull out three wires leaving only one. At the back left of the top of the stove there is a rectangle channel that the wires are running through. There is a clip that holds the wires loosely together. Remove the wires from that clip or the next part will be difficult. Run each of the new igniter wires through their respective holes in the stove top. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE WIRE INSULATION IN ANY WAY. When you put the burner plates back on the igniters will be sandwiched in between the plate and the stove top. Using electrical tape, tape the connector ends of the new wires to the one remaining old wire. Gently pull the old wire through the rectangle channel, pulling from the back of the stove. Take your time so no damage occurs. Once the wires are pulled, plug them in to their respective terminals and place the wires in the loose clip. Make sure the new wires are not crossing the pipe openings where the burners are located. You can close the stove top and double check there are no wires across any of the burner openings. Re-assemble the burners and plug in the stove. DO NOT OPEN THE GAS VALVE. Turn on the stove and check to make sure the new igniters are working properly and sparking to the burner plate assemblies. You should see a controlled spark. Do not touch the burner plates or igniters or you will be shocked. If all are working then you may put the back cover on and open the gas valve. If none are working make sure the stove is plugged in. If some are working then check the connection on the terminal block and the wire insulation. If they are still not working then you've got bigger fish to fry. Good luck my friend. Happy fixing!

Called a repairman who installed the piece of glass as the old piece was difficult to remove. Started project so I could clean the various glass pieces but was happy he came and finished the job. It took him over 30 minutes and like I said I had most of the door apart.

1. Opened oven door and removed bottom covers plates to expose igniter and removed it. 2. Located hole in oven rear where the igniter connector and leads went through. 3. Pulled oven forward to allow access to rear bottom left cover plate where leads came through and removed plate to obtain access. 4. Installed replacement igniter in place of old iginter and ran its leads and connector through the oven hole. 5. Since the new igniter connector was unlike the old one, I had to replace the new igniter connector with the old one. Allowing sufficient lengths to properly make splices, I cut the igniter connectors off so that I could eventually match the mating connecter to the oven control circuit. I used a wire striper and pliers to make good splices. I covered the splices with plastic wire nuts normally used for insulating splices. I left the splices and the igniter connector outside the oven back for protection from the heat inside the oven. 6. After ensuring that oven insulation material was positioned to essentially cover the hole where the connector wires go through, I replaced the cover plate at rear of the oven and the cover plates inside the oven. 7. I checked oven for proper operation and found it now to be OK. Range was returned to normal position..problem corrected.

I had to use a dremel to grind the heads off the rusted in screws that hold the burners to the stove top then drill out the screws and use larger sheet metal screws to reassemble. Don't lift the stove top much with the burners attached or you'll bend the gas lines. Two screws inside the top oven hold the top down. Without the rusted screws it would be an easy job.

Door comes out by lifting up..remove perimeter screws...would have taken less time except I got in the way of my husband getting it done.....

Open door,release door hing latches on both sides by pulling down metal tabs, lift door to remove.Remove three screws at top of door and three at bottom to remove front glass.once you remove glass you will find two brackets on each side with two screws each remove these screws to access panel with door handle. Remove door handle screws and install everything back in reverse order.Note: pay attention how the two brackets come apart because there is a left and right. I made this mistake or i would have completed a couple mins. sooner. Enjoy

First, I called Sears who wanted $440.00 to send a tech out to repair the stove. Second, I visited various web sites to find out what the problem was. I watched a brief video on Part Select which showed the repair of the stove. I then checked other parts stores on the web and selected Part Select based on price and video. Installation was very easy just as the video showed. Stove was repaired in less than 30 minutes.

I think the installation instructions are fairly self explanatory. This is the second item I've ordered from Parts Select and I'm thrilled with their service. The items are always less expensive than other sites and they deliver what they promise. I would highly recommend them.

watched video provided when ordered part; follow the steps, easy as pie

removed the door, removed the bottom, removed the glass. The handle bracket it attached to the door but though the vented part. After removing the old handle just had to put it all together again, Not hare just a lot to take a apart.

removing the screws holding the burner together was impossible. they snapped off and I had to drill them out. that took the most time. after that it was 100% easy hookup. clean up of the burner was done with a wire brush. good quality products. thanks.

Like other reviewers said it was pretty easy. Remember the order you take things off and keep the screws in groups so you remember which ones go back. I was a little surprised to see i had to take the bottom trim off door so that i could take out glass so i could reach brackets on top of door that hold on the handle, but this gave me a chance to do a good cleaning of the door. Not sure how grease gets inside the glass but there it was. Did this by myself but it would have been nice to have one more hand there to hold the glass as i put it all back together.

Removed old gasket and replaced with new gasket'

very simple fix. I removed the bake burner cover (the blue cover on the bottom of the oven), under that is the oven baffle which is held on with one wing nut and removed that. Then remove the oven bake igniter screws(two on the side), remove the orifice cover scew and remove then remove the oven bake burner gently. once these parts are off you need to remove the screws on the back of the oven ( I believe theres about 4 or 5 along each side and there are 4 on the bottom of the large metal plate. you only need to remove the large metal cover every thing else stays put. Disconnect the lower back burner attatchment which just clips into the connecter. once thats removed the part should come out easlily from the inside of the oven. Now take the new bake ignitor and feed the wires through the opening on the inside of the oven that allows the wires to come through to the back of the oven(you may need to feel around for the wires and move some of the insulation aside to feel them) once the wires come through the back connect the new part by clipping it to the harness the old part was removed from. At this point you should be able to reassemble the back of the oven exactly the way it was removed.Now go back to the inside of the oven, replace the bake burner gently over the bake burner orifice and put the orifice cover back on and reattach with it's screw. Position the bake igniter back into place on the side of the bake burner and replace the two screws previously removed. Once thats in place its time to put the oven baffle back on and secure with the wing nut and the last step is to place the bake burner cover. Just set the oven to bake and it should be working if thats in fact the problem..Good luck. Took me less than 15 minutes to fix.Some find it easier to remove the oven door but I didn't need to do this since I had enough room to access the front and the back of the oven without any trouble.