MGR6751BDW17 Maytag Range - Instructions

Put a new one in.

From reading other reviews i thought I would have to dis-assemble the door but when I saw the new part I realized I would not have to, simply pop the beveled clips w/pocket knife and pop in the new seal clips. the ends tucked very nicely, an 80+ yr. old would have no trouble if they had their wits.

1. Turn power off and loosen and remove screws. Pull out sensor from mounting hole and expose wire connector. Remove old sensor. Select appropriate wire adaptor and reconnect the sensor. Carefully push connector through hole and secure with screws removed previously. Turn power back on and cycle oven to make sure oven operates properly. If you have an oven thermometer it can be used to compare set point of oven to thermometer to make sure readings are the same. All done! Happy wife can now bake cookies again and now I can go back to man cave for other projects!

The entire "project" took me less than 3 minutes, and required no tools at all! First, the saleswoman over the phone pointed me to the correct product for my problem ($30 less than what I thought I needed), and it arrived at my home within 4 days. Then, it was just a matter of pulling off the old gasket, and snapping the new one in place! Simple!

I was pleased with how the job went.
It took longer than expected because I am not really a "do it yourselfer", but I studied the door and reread how others managed the repair several times.
There were more screws than mentioned here.
Someone said 10 screws but there were 12.
In the end I was pleased and surprised how simple the job was, but recommend others read carefully what others have written. I didn't but learned one must.

I repair it by shutting off the gas. removing the back panel of the stove . unplug the electrical sensor cord to the igniter. Then replace with new one.

replaced heat sensor

We removed the door from the hinges by sliding it up. Then we removed all the screws holding the door together. We had to remove the screw securing the trim. Next we removed the screws inside the trim holding the old handle. We replaced the handle and trim and screws in reverse order. Finally, we re-attached the door by sliding it onto the hinges.

I located the temp sensor (top left). Removed the 2x Phillips screws and slide the wire out until the plug is thru the opening taking care not to pull to hard as to damage the end that you not going to replace. To install plug it in and push the wire thru and secure with 2x Phillip screws.

To replace the igniter, I removed the oven door, all racks, the cover for the burner element and the shield over the burner element. I also removed the back panel to access the wiring. Removal of these elements was easy and took only a couple of minutes. When I tried to remove the old igniter from the bracket supporting it, one of the screws was stripped. Unfortunately I had to drill this screw out and replace it. If I didn't have to do this, both jobs would have taken about 20 minutes combined. After removing the igniter from the bracket, I replaced it, ran the electrical to the back where the wiring harness was and reassembled the components.

As for the upper oven temperature sensor, it took 5 minutes. I removed the two screws holding the sensor in place and pulled it out which exposed the electrical connection. I simply unplugged it, and screwed the new one in its place. I then connected the wiring harness.

• Removed the oven door (pulled right off old hinges)
• Removed two screws
• Removed broken hinge
• Placed new hinge in place
• Replaced screws
• Replaced oven door.

I took the door off and removed five phillip screws from the old bottom support and removed it. I took the opportunity to clean the glass on the front and back before placing it back on. It simply fits into two keepers at top and is held on by the new support at the bottom. I replaced the five screws and put the door back on. It is a simple job that only takes a few minutes.

After reading from a Google search, why won't me maytag genius double oven light? I read that my oven will not open its gas valve until the igniter is hot, glowing red. Mine didn't glow red bad igniters. After ordering the new parts install was easy and under 15 mins. My advice is to be careful pulling the oven out to access the back panels, be careful not to scratch your flooring. 5 screws for the big panel, and 3 for the small panel. All Phillips head screws. 5 inside the oven to pull the old igniter. Easy job anyone can do it. I did both upper and lower ovens and the broiler igniters.

Bought new hinges as that was the obvious problem.
Below is the removal, installation process for new hinges. Turns out in my case there was nothing wrong with the hinges. Problem was still there after installing new ones. I found that the metal in the door that butted against the hinges was fatigued causing looseness. I ended up compressing the metal back into shape with a hammer. Problem solved but money wasted on hinges.
If you replace hinges. Here is what I did.
1. Open door slightly to where it stops in broiler position.
2. Remove the door by pulling up.
3. Remove two screws in front of hinges that hold them in.
4. Pull range out a few inches for access the remove the side fillers that trim out the stove.
5. Reach in from the side and work hinges out.
5. Pop in new hinges and reattach the 2 front holding screws and the side trim screws.
You are done.

Removed all the racks from inside the oven, unscrewed the 6 screws that held it into the cabinet, pulled it out and sat it on the floor in front of the cabinet. Removed the oven sensor from the inside of the oven after disconnecting the wire harness from the rear right exterior of the oven. Installed new sensor from inside (2screws), plugged it into the harness in the back and reinstalled oven in the cabinet.