MGR6751BDB19 Maytag Range - Instructions

I had the old oven rack in the oven when I cleaned it. The rack came out brown and would not slide easily. The new rack was exactly the right one and now all is back to perfect!

Remove outer panel first, outer glass and handle come off as one piece. Be carefull to secure as last screws are removed. Remove inner silver panel. Remove broken glass and replace with new. Reaassemble. Around 10 Phillips head screws altogether. Much easier than I thought

Removed old ingniter with screwdriver. Installed new igniter, but had to remove connector in order to electrically connect using twist on connectors.

Pull range out 6 inches. Open door to 45 degrees and pull up to remove door. Remove both side plates, two screws each side. Remove both hinges by loosening two small bolts on the front of range that connect to the hinges. Place new hinges in place. Bolt hinges using bolts you removed, replace side panels. Slide door on hinges and push back range.

After shutting the main valve behind stove. Removed all shelves and rear cover from stove. Unplugged the plug to the sensor. Removed the two mounting screws and pulled the old sensor out. Installed new sensor and plugged it in again. After reinstalling the rear cover and shelves, replugged in power, openned the gas valve behind the stove and tested with soapy water to make sure there wasn't ant developed leaks. Turned on oven with a test thermometer in it. Monitored operation and now oven temperature is roughly 10 to 20 degrees to the setpoint.

Removed back of stove, removed screws from sensor inside oven, unplugged connector from back of stove, pulled sensor out through oven; installed new sensor, replaced back of stove. Set the oven to bake, waited for it to pre-heat; the oven thermometer showed that the same problem was occurring, the sensor replacement didn't work.

My husband and I began to pull the oven out and I realized that it was too heavy for me to hold. Luckily we were able to get another man to help. Other than that it was easy. Also, it took us awhile to figure out which screws secured the oven into the cabinet. We saved over $1000.00 on a new oven and installation. Kudos to everyone who added their comments! They gave us courage to give it a try.

Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.

First pulled the oven out and noticed how dirty the floor was underneath. Bachelors are BAD housekeepers. Next I removed the oven door (just slides off the hinges) to make it easier to reach in and unscrew the two screws holding the sensor in place in the upper left back of oven. Screws came out easily. Then I removed the back panel by removing the six screws holding it in place. I unsnapped the temp sensor wiring connection, then pulled the probe out from the front (inside the oven). Installed the new probe by feeding the wires and connector through from the front (inside the oven) and attached it with the two screws. Then went to the back again, snapped the wiring connectors together, and replaced the back panel. Then I scrubbed the floor, pushed the range back in place, reinstalled the door, and gave it a test run. PERFECTION! Heated to within five degrees of setting. EASIEST REPAIR JOB I'VE EVER DONE!

The plastic attachment on the oven door handle broke on one side, and of course the whole handle had to be replaced. I attempted first to super-glue the broken piece, but naturally, that didn't work. I found the necessary piece very easily thru PartSelect.com's web page, and had the replacement piece within a couple days. The most difficult part of the whole operation was figuring out how to remove the old handle. Once that was done, the replacement took approximately 15 minutes. Thanks PartSelect.

I needed to remove the rear panel to replace the sensor, but unfortunately, that was not the problem. It could have been; but also, it could have been the electronic control, or the gas control valve. This was the cheapest "trial" fix. I did talk to a "Warranty Repair Man", who said that IF it was the electronic control, because of the age of the oven, (13 years) the part would not be available and would need to be fabricated by the manufacture. Even then the cost would approach the cost of a new oven. So, we abandonded the idea of repairs to this one. I guess 13 years is a bit to much to expect of a machine this day and time. Things are made to use-up and throw away. Such is life ! !

I viewed the YTube Video that showed exactly how to remove the door and all the other parts for replacement. Excellent video shows and explains how to remove, replace, and re-attach the handle and the door.

1. OPEN THE OVEN DOOR TO THE FIRST STOP,
PULL UPWARD TO REMOVE, ( IT WILL LIFT RIGHT
OFF)
2. LAY OVEN DOOR ON A FLAT SURFACE ( HANDLE
DOWN AND HANGING OFF SURFACE) WITH A
TOWEL TO PROTECT THE GLASS.
3. REMOVE ALL SCREWS AROUND THE
PERIMETER OF THE DOOR..
4. CAREFULLY SEPARATE THE DOOR FRONT AND
BOTTOM BRACKET BY SLIDING AWAY FROM
THE MAIN DOOR INNER-ASSEMBLY, ( THE
FRONT GLASS IS HELD BY THE TOP CHANNEL.
5. TURN THE MAIN DOOR INNER ASSEMBLY OVER
AND REMOVE THE HANDLE ASSEMBLY TWO
ATTACHING BRACKETS.
6. REMOVE THE ATTACHING BRACKETS FROM
THE HANDLE AND ATTACH TO THE NEW
HANDLE.
7. THE DOOR GLASSES CAN NOW BE CLEANED
8. ATTACH THE NEW HANDLE ASSEMBLY
9. REASSEMBLE IN REVERSE ORDER.
( BE CAREFUL WHEN SLIDING FRONT DOOR
GLASS INTO THE TOP DOOR CHANNEL}

You Tube!!! Didn’t find my exact oven, but watching a couple of videos was extremely helpful. Replacing the igniter was basically simple, but since it was a first for me, I took my time. Probably saved $200. The part was just over $100.

Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.