MGR6772BDW Maytag Range - Instructions

I slide the oven out from the counter and unpluged it. I removed all the oven racks. I then removed the machine screws that held the sheet metal that covered the back of the unit. This made it a lot easier to disconnect the long oven sensor wire and put the wire through the insulation. I removed the two screws on the inside of the oven that held the sensor onto the inside rear wall of the oven. The old sensor did not test too bad but the temperature is reaching the set temperature. I still had to adjust the oven temp up ten degrees using the control panel. I have learned that it takes a few cycles of the element going off and on during the warming to reach the desired set temperature. One more issue is that the buzzer goes off signaling that the set temperature has been reached when it has not. When I set it for 350 F the buzzerr goes off at 280 F and I have a good oven thermometer. I own three oven thermometers and they all read the same. We use to have nothing but Maytag appliances but no more. We have had issues with Maytag front loading washers and ranges. PartSelect is great. Good prices and fast delivery.

Removed frame to cabinet lag screws
Slid oven out of cabinet (required because wire harness could not be pulled through inside of oven)
Removed two screws holding attaching sensor inside oven
Uncoupled wire harness
Installed new sensor in reverse order

Unfortunately, neither the new bake element or sensor fixed the problem, so I just ordered the more expensive control board -- hope that does it.

I took out the old and replaced with the new. The hardest part was getting that tiny halogen bulb in that tiny little hole. It took longer to take the oven racks out and put them back in than to make the repairs.

Control panel was responsive however oven would not heat up. I Replaced sensor with one of the adapters and oven is now working again.

Just remove the old for new

Installed new thermostat. Went well. Now the oven comes on and it takes 2.5 hours to come up to 250 degrees. Help!

cut off terminals and replaced with the right size one's stove lights every time now wlrowe

The trickiest part was locating the elusive spark module. I am not certain I took the best route, but not considering all the wrong routes in trial and error, it was the most expedient. Certainly there must have been a single something to remove to get to this frequently faulted part..

Anyhow, thanks to the great part, the stove works really well again.

removed oven door, unscrewed 2 screws on front of plate covering burner at bottom of oven. Undid wing nuts on tent-like cover, unscrewed 2 screws at back of burner (igniter "hiding" under left back side). Pulled oven away from wall (yuch, where did that stuff come from?), unscrewed 2 screws of bottom plate, undid connector to old igniter, fished wires with connector from new igniter, plugged them in. Attached new igniter to bottom of burner, rescrewed. Put all screws and parts back in correct places. Cleaned oven door before putting it back on. Turned oven on........baked bread!! Hooray! Repair was easy-peasy!

It was necessary to take the decorative glass and metal safety panel off using a screwdriver in order to get to the frame that holds the safety glass. It was hard to slide the new glass into the frame without help from a second person to hold the other pane in place.This was an easy repair to make I would just suggest having 2 people to hole things in place while replacing screws.

Slide oven door off hinges. Remove old gasket. Instal new gasket. Used eraser end of pencil to help feed in ends of gasket into respective holes for excess. Note: job could have been accomplished without taking off door but I wanted to take door appart to clean inside and out of glass.

The hardest part was deciding if this part would fix the problem. The upper oven became unusable. Both elements worked fine until reaching temperature. The oven would not come back on after that. I took two screws out. Then I pulled the wires out and unsnapped the coupling. The install was reverse. I just snapped the coupling in place and replaced the two screws. All works fine now. Saved a couple thousand as wife was prepared to buy a new one.

The sensor inserts into a slot in the back side of the range. By removing screws on the heat shield on the backside of the range, the sensor wires will be exposed can be unplugged. Then remove the screws that attach the sensor to the back inside panel in the oven. Next, pull the old sensor out. The wire leads will get caught on the insulation blanket, no big deal. Reverse the process to install the new sensor. The new sensor comes with two connector sets for the wiring. I did the whole job for less than the cost of a service call.

We took the back off the stove and unscrewed the two screws from the inside holding the sensor on and pulled it through and plugged it in and then replaced the screws. Very easy. We are still having trouble as the display does not read the same as the tempature is in the oven.

Followed video