MGR6772BDW Maytag Range - Instructions

From reading other reviews i thought I would have to dis-assemble the door but when I saw the new part I realized I would not have to, simply pop the beveled clips w/pocket knife and pop in the new seal clips. the ends tucked very nicely, an 80+ yr. old would have no trouble if they had their wits.

Maytag Gemini Freestanding Gas Double Range MGR6775BDS-Impotant Note: This Maytag Gemini is a double oven-so there is a smaller oven on top and a larger oven on the bottom. In the small top over, there are two igniters (broiler igniter on top of the oven and a bake igniter on the bottom). The igniters look identical (like the broil igniter) but have different connectors, and therefore different part numbers on the site . The top broil igniter is WP7400-7966 and the bottom bake igniter is WP7400-7399. They look identical but have different connectors. The repair was simple. Shut off the electric and gas to the stove. Remove the back panel (5 screws), and disconnect the igniter. The oven igniter is below the broil igniter for the top oven. Inside the small oven, remove the heat deflector cover (two screws right in front). Now remove the heat deflector (two wing nuts on top of the burner). Now remove the burner. There are three screws, one right in front (by the door), one in the bracket by the igniter and a third holding a small plate by the flame adjustment valve. Once the three screws are removed, fish the igniter wire (that you unattached in the back of the stove) through the stove wall into the oven area. Slide the burner a little to the left and remove it from the oven. The igniter is attached to the burner by two screws. Remove the igniter and attach the new one. As another tip, one of the screws would not unscrew (stripped in the metal). Maybe this is because of the constant heat and cooling of the metal. I had to saw off the old screw and reattached the igniter with my own screw and nut. Fish the new igniter wire through to back of the oven. Attach it to the connector in the back of the range. Reverse the directions to re-install the burner, heat deflector, heat defector cover and rear panel (on the back of the range).

Put a new one in.

Just removed the shield (2 wing nuts) than the burner (1 Screw). THe back needs to be removed to unplug the igniter. I than reversed the process until I got to the plug and found that I had 2 male ends. I than had to remove everything and go back to square one until I find the part with the correct end (which should be Female) I'd check this before getting too deep into the repair.

Removed door, oven racks, and cover at the bottom. Very easy to get to the actual ignitor. The more challenging part is getting to the back of the oven where the igniter plugs in. Once we got the oven pulled out enough to access the bottom of the back panel, we removed the back panel....just a couple screws and it slides up. Unclipping and removing the old igniter was easy. It's a bit of a challenge to feed the new igniter's wires under the insulation and up over a small ledge and out a small hole that's smaller than a quarter. Small hands help. You can avoid the whole part of attaching it in the back of you clip the wires of your old igniter and new one. Then use ceramic wire nuts to connect the new igniter the the old one's wires. We decided not to do that since it was already done once that way and figured it would be good to have fresh wires clipped in at the back. Overall, fairly easy repair especially if you decide to connect the igniter with ceramic wire nuts.

Turned off the gas line & unplugged the oven. Pulled oven away from the wall to access the back of the oven. Removed the back panel (screws) on the oven & the few inner oven parts covering the broken igniter. Sprayed WD 40 on the threads of screws holding the old igniter in place. Removed old igniter screws with a nutdriver & unplugged it from the back of the oven. Installed the PartSelect replacement igniter & plugged it into the wiring receptacle. Reassembled the parts covering the new igniter & screwed the back panel back onto the oven. Plugged oven in, turned the gas back on & pushed the oven back into place. Tested the new igniter. Woohoo, oven works again & wife if happy!

I repair it by shutting off the gas. removing the back panel of the stove . unplug the electrical sensor cord to the igniter. Then replace with new one.

The entire "project" took me less than 3 minutes, and required no tools at all! First, the saleswoman over the phone pointed me to the correct product for my problem ($30 less than what I thought I needed), and it arrived at my home within 4 days. Then, it was just a matter of pulling off the old gasket, and snapping the new one in place! Simple!

Removed grill and set aside, then removed burner with a 1/4 counter clock twist. Removed ground wire and igniter wire from burner. Set to side in order taken off. Remove the two screws on the panel that is on the back of the unit and slide it up and set it aside. Removed screws from side decorative panels each side (one top and one bottom) and slide panel toward the rear to remove from notch slot. Then removed the two screws on each side and back to remove top of range. On the side there are two screws together towards the rear, the one towards the front of the range need to be removed. Then removed four screws that held the pan under the range top that were screwed into the gas line supports. Then removed the two screws from rear that held the pan in place. Remove the pan and set aside. Lift the right gas line burner support up. Remove ground bottom, hot wires upper and igniter wires from spark module. Pop module out and replace with new one. Reverse process to complete repair. Cause that the wires do not get under the pan when reinstalling same

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

I removed all the screws that held the trim and inner frame to the outside window unit first. Then, I removed a protective glass from over the two inner panes. Next after removing the frame that held the two inner glass panes together, I took the broken inner glass pane out and replaced it with the new one. Then basically I just retraced my steps and had the door put back together in about 45 minutes. You just need to pay close attention to your disassembly so that you are able to put the pieces back together quickly.

Door was removed very easily. Outside trim pieces were removed. The rest came apart like a simple puzzle. Inside glass is very easily accessed. Upon assembling, time was well under an hour. Shipping was fantastic and I saved close to 200dollars between a service call and a repair.

We moved into a house with seemingly newer looking appliances. After the dishwasher broke and destroyed our floor, we found out that they were all twelve years old. Amazing the condition they were in after all that time.

The oven was the next thing to break. The hinge snapped, and while we could still use the oven, it allowed hot air to seep out.

So I checked online and lo and behold, I found a hinge for under $20. Wow. Much cheaper than a new range.

The most amazing thing was that I purchased it on a Friday afternoon, and it showed up on Saturday, so we could do the repair over the weekend. I cannot tell you how impressed I am with that kind of service.

We had to take off the side panel which was a pain, but all in all, it was 7-8 screws and swapping the hinge was easy. One of the screws did not want to go back in, so I had to find a replacement, but other than that, it was a pretty easy repair.

Thanks!

Watch the video. Spot on instructions. Easy peasy.

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!