MER6772BAS Maytag Range - Instructions

oven had to completely come out cause two sheet metal side panels had to be removed to get to hinge.

I did not mark wires with their associated numbered connections on the old burner but I did take pictures prior to removing the old burner. This slightly complicated finding the right connections for the wires on the new burner but the photos taken were invaluable in doing so. The placement of burner connections between new and old was different. Additionally, there were 2 connections on new and old that were not numbered. These turned out to be the power to the inner and outer coils and their connections were determined by examining the burners and connecting accordingly. Also, not mentioned in the instructions was a light on the new burner that the old burner did not have. I removed the light and the wire connecting it to the burner and connected the freed new burner connector based on the old/new burner connection numbering. Despite my lack of confidence that I correctly installed the burner, it worked on the first try and I am very happy to have it fully functional again.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

I didn't repair anything because you sent me the wrong part! I submitted a claim to return it and it's been a week, and I have heard nothing from you. Horrible customer service, I'll be calling today.

After pulling stove, simple removal of three screws to replace the broken part.

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

First I unpluged the range from the power source. Then I removed the back cover, disconnected the two wires to the element, remover two screws on the inside of the oven the held the element in place and removed it. I then installed the new element in the reverse order. This took about one day to get the new part and 15 to 20 mins to do the repairs. I figured that I saved at least $55 on a repairman service call.

simply took off smooth surface top flipped it upsde down on a towel. unbolted the entire burner assembly. matched connections with the new burner with limit switch. replaced smooth surface top plugged it in. no problems. extremely easy fix no repair charges.

remove two screws, remove two slide on wire connections and remove element. reverse to install.

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

I removed the two screws, puled out the element and took the pliers to unhook the two wires.

Disassembled the oven door, removed broken glass, replaced with new glass and reassembled oven door. Took very little time. Online diagram on this site helped to keep everything in order and easily know what part was needed. Thanks!!!!

I Lifted the oven door from the hinges and removed all the screws to get to the broken glass pane, since the oven door is in layers I taped the screws close to where they belonged, so that I could screw everything together again in the right order..
The last time this happened to me(!!) I brought the door to a repair man and hadto pay 200 dollars , I saved 150 Dollars doing it myself!

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

replacing this was very easy and simple. I removed the 2 screws holding the support bracket then the 2 screws in back of the elemant ,pull clips off the element then installed it back like it was .....very simple...