MERH865RAS13 Maytag Range - Instructions

The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

This range was easy. Only 4 screws under the front panel that allows the panel to come off. No need to pull the range out for back screws.

Replacement part was exact and worked perfect.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the range.

Remove the 4 screws under the front panel, one on each end and one one each side of the display/control panel.

Pull the bottom of the front panel out about 30 degrees and lift off the top.

Once panel is off pull of the dial knob, remove the two screws for the control and swap wires on at a time with the new one.. Reverse the procedure and all is good. You may need to use needle nosed pliers on the spade connectors if they are too tight to pull off by hand.

Remove the door.
Remove screws
Clear out broken glass. Vacuum out small glass shards.
Clean all glass.
Reattach all parts.
Replace the door.
Smile!

Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.

First things first...Unplug the unit...Then remove the center plate from the back of the oven (one screw) and take clips off element. Then on the inside, there are 2 screws near the back on the bottom panel. These were rusted on pretty good, so that's where the vice grips came into play. The entire job would've gone much faster, if I wasn't fighting with these 2 screws...After you remove the screws, tilt up bottom panel and remove. Then you just remove 1 rear screw & 2 bottom screws and slide out the old element. Slide the new one in, secure it with the screws and screw the bottom panel back into place. Go to the rear of the oven, slide the 2 clips on the element and screw rear plate back on. Plug the oven back in and that's it...

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

Watch the video. Spot on instructions. Easy peasy.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

Pull oven away from wall and unplug. with the oven door open, remove 2 rear screws holding down the element cover and pull element cover out of the oven. remove 2 screws holding element down to the bottom of the stove, and one screw holding the back of the element to the rear. now go behind the oven and remove the access plate to the element power connection (one screw). Disconnect the 2 element power wires. remove element. to install, reverse these instructions

First I removed the oven door, then I removed the three screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I connected the two wires to the new element , replaced the three holding screws and the oven door. ------END-------

First of all, let me say how "Not Handy" I am when it comes to these things. I decided to give this part a try after my oven decided to fail on Thanksgiving Day, so I ordered the part. It arrived on time as promised and packaged very well. The on-line parts breakout and testimony from the other buyers were so helpful. I had our oven back up and running in less than 10 minutes.

One thing I would also recommend is that you burn the element once installed for at least 15 minutes to get the newness smell off of it and then it won't permeate your food items.

Thanks, Parts Select! You saved me over $900.00; the price it was going to cost me to buy a new oven. :)

removed the two screws in the rear of the oven to access the element. once exposed I removed the four screws holding the element in place. Went to the ouitside back of the stove and removed one screw holding the shield to access the terminals for the element. Installation was in reverse order.