MGR6775BDB13 Maytag Range - Instructions

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.

Pull out unit from wall in order to access back panel.
Unplug and turn off gas.
Remove the entire back panel (there is no small access panel like there is on other units. You must remove the whole back panel.)
Open the top oven door and remove rack, then remove the bottom heat shield, unscrew igniter.
Unplug the igniter from the back of the range. If you don't what wire it is have someone jiggle the wire from inside the top over while you look from the back of the range.
Pull out igniter.
Perform all steps again in reverse.

My husband and I began to pull the oven out and I realized that it was too heavy for me to hold. Luckily we were able to get another man to help. Other than that it was easy. Also, it took us awhile to figure out which screws secured the oven into the cabinet. We saved over $1000.00 on a new oven and installation. Kudos to everyone who added their comments! They gave us courage to give it a try.

First pulled the oven out and noticed how dirty the floor was underneath. Bachelors are BAD housekeepers. Next I removed the oven door (just slides off the hinges) to make it easier to reach in and unscrew the two screws holding the sensor in place in the upper left back of oven. Screws came out easily. Then I removed the back panel by removing the six screws holding it in place. I unsnapped the temp sensor wiring connection, then pulled the probe out from the front (inside the oven). Installed the new probe by feeding the wires and connector through from the front (inside the oven) and attached it with the two screws. Then went to the back again, snapped the wiring connectors together, and replaced the back panel. Then I scrubbed the floor, pushed the range back in place, reinstalled the door, and gave it a test run. PERFECTION! Heated to within five degrees of setting. EASIEST REPAIR JOB I'VE EVER DONE!

I needed to remove the rear panel to replace the sensor, but unfortunately, that was not the problem. It could have been; but also, it could have been the electronic control, or the gas control valve. This was the cheapest "trial" fix. I did talk to a "Warranty Repair Man", who said that IF it was the electronic control, because of the age of the oven, (13 years) the part would not be available and would need to be fabricated by the manufacture. Even then the cost would approach the cost of a new oven. So, we abandonded the idea of repairs to this one. I guess 13 years is a bit to much to expect of a machine this day and time. Things are made to use-up and throw away. Such is life ! !

Repair was very simple. Took the door apart in layers, replaced the glass and put everything else back. it took longer to clean the stove than it did to actually take it apart and put it back together. guess i didnt need to be that much of a clean freak!

1. OPEN THE OVEN DOOR TO THE FIRST STOP,
PULL UPWARD TO REMOVE, ( IT WILL LIFT RIGHT
OFF)
2. LAY OVEN DOOR ON A FLAT SURFACE ( HANDLE
DOWN AND HANGING OFF SURFACE) WITH A
TOWEL TO PROTECT THE GLASS.
3. REMOVE ALL SCREWS AROUND THE
PERIMETER OF THE DOOR..
4. CAREFULLY SEPARATE THE DOOR FRONT AND
BOTTOM BRACKET BY SLIDING AWAY FROM
THE MAIN DOOR INNER-ASSEMBLY, ( THE
FRONT GLASS IS HELD BY THE TOP CHANNEL.
5. TURN THE MAIN DOOR INNER ASSEMBLY OVER
AND REMOVE THE HANDLE ASSEMBLY TWO
ATTACHING BRACKETS.
6. REMOVE THE ATTACHING BRACKETS FROM
THE HANDLE AND ATTACH TO THE NEW
HANDLE.
7. THE DOOR GLASSES CAN NOW BE CLEANED
8. ATTACH THE NEW HANDLE ASSEMBLY
9. REASSEMBLE IN REVERSE ORDER.
( BE CAREFUL WHEN SLIDING FRONT DOOR
GLASS INTO THE TOP DOOR CHANNEL}

I looked it over and decided what i needed to have for parts .I ordered the new door handle from part select.com and within a reasonable time i received the part in the mail ...I lifted the door out of its place took the screws out put the handle in and buttoned it up ...The replacement part was as good as a new one would be...It took a matter of less than 30 minutes total... thanks for your service...

1. Lift the Oven Door off of the 2 stove hinge mechanisms.
2. Remove the screws holding the bottom Glass Support Bracket.
3. Slide the Support Bracket out from under the oven door side bracket tangs and off the cosmetic front glass.
4. Slide the glass out of the top bracket and thoroughly clean both sides of the glass with glass cleaner and wipe with paper towels.
5. Slide the new Glass Support Bracket onto the bottom of the glass, slide the glass back into the oven door top bracket, and slide the new bracket under the oven door side bracket tangs.
6. Reinstall the screws, and then slide the oven door back onto the 2 hinge mechanisms on the stove.

The plastic attachment on the oven door handle broke on one side, and of course the whole handle had to be replaced. I attempted first to super-glue the broken piece, but naturally, that didn't work. I found the necessary piece very easily thru PartSelect.com's web page, and had the replacement piece within a couple days. The most difficult part of the whole operation was figuring out how to remove the old handle. Once that was done, the replacement took approximately 15 minutes. Thanks PartSelect.

I took the oven door apart, pulled out the broken fragments of glass and replaced it with the new glass. I should have taken notes as I took the door apart because it was a bit tricky to remember how all the pieces fit back together.

I was very impressed with how quickly the parts were shipped and the quality of the packing materials to protect the glass as it was shipped.

moved stove away from the wall, Disconnected power, Removed 2 screws on the access panel and removed panel. Disconnected qwick release conections on heat sensor and ignitor, Removed oven door and burner cover to expose ignitor, removed 2 screws to remove ignitor and replaced ignitor. Removed 2 screws and removed sensor, replaced sensor. Reconnected qwick conects on sensor and ignitor. Replaced oven door, burner cover and access panel and checked out. Checks OK !

unplugged from electric; turned gas off behind range & removed back panel; removed rack & door (optional) of upper oven; slid & removed drip cover; removed flame guard; carefully unscrewed igniter bracket to keep from dropping fasteners; located and unplugged old igniter from range back; removed old igniter through front of oven, go slow as it gets caught along the way; fed new igniter through same path; reverse steps - plug in new igniter, secure in oven, replace guard & cover & door if removed; back panel installed; gas knob turned to align with gas line; range plugged back into electric wall socket

Did the diagnostic tests from the literature provided in a bag on the back of my stove I had no idea it was on the back of my stove because I had this stove installed when it was brand new
The final test indicated the igniter was bad and this is a common cause due to age wear and tear and just use of the oven
So I ordered one. It came extremely fast
It was a an OEM part
I had the oven back in operation in 15 minutes that includes R&R of the stove back and oven racks and inside fire tube covers and fire tube
I then replaced the bad igniter with the new one on the fire tube then reinstalled the fire tube
Then I did the Prefire test with the Gas turned off and the igniter lit beautifully
Then the final test was I turned on the gas and did the Prefire test again AND the fire tube lit up and beautiful blue flames came out the fire tubes tiny holes
Then I finished putting the back and inboard fire tube covers back on
Then I put the racks back in
This is what I did from start to finish and the Most important thing was I made my wife extremely happy