ACR4303MFS4 Maytag Range - Instructions

No tools needed. And it's always great to be able to replace parts on my VERY old counter-top range. It still works very well, and now it also looks great. Delivery was amazingly fast, too! Thanks!

Removed old bowl and dropped in new one!!It looks great - the cooktop is probably 30 years old.Your serviceperson was courteous friendly and very rapid.This actually is the second replacement but I was pleasantly surprised that the part was available. Thanks!!

Snapped in the new drawer glide. Took less than 5 minutes.

replaced them

Unplugged unit, removed plate behind control panel, removed 5 or 6 wire connectors, pulled off burner switch knob and removed 2 screws that holds switch in place. Reversed the procedure and was done.

Just cut the old receptacle wires and splice in new kit. Very simple and worked perfectly.

changing the part itself was easy, but the sheet metal covering the whole back of the oven was difficult to remove because of some screws that were stripped. The new sensor solved the problem.

The detection of the part and the replacement of the upper spray arm was quite easy, because of its unique shape and function, and also because it was easy to screw in place. I saved the web order page in case this part tends to deteriorate frequently, even though it is the first time it showed this problem since we purchased this appliance.

since I only had one of two screws, i installed with just the one. it would not work at all using a slightly longer screw, which is very odd.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

due to the cooktop age, part was not an exact duplicate. I had to drill new holes in the stainless steel for mounting and ground wire. I used a lot of kitchen matches to heat the shrink tubes over the twist connectors. I should have gotten a heat gun or torch.

Contrary to instructions(go thru front of oven) I had to pull out the range, remove two (2) screws from back chassis. At this point you pull out the connector, snap in new, reverse proceedure. Very simple. Hardest part is cleaning up debris generated by moving range.

My first approach was to try to find some help on the internet - Y-Tube or whatever. When I could not find anything, I was on my own. My first thought was that the best and easiest access to the switch was to somehow remove the top section of the range which held the switch. I was trying to avoid having to pull the range from the wall and cabinets. But not finding any way to do that, I then pulled the range from the wall, and removed the back panel (8 screws), which gave me easy access. Once that was done, the replacement went smoothly and quickly. So if replacing any switches on this range, FIRST pull it from the wall and THEN remove the back panel, and the rest is a piece of cake!

Took appro 8 screws out of back panel, 2 screws holding switch, and pulled out switch, unhooked wires and reinstalled wires on new switch. Had to snap off stem with needle nose pliers which is simple and put everything back in place in reverse order!

Sanded element contact, replaced connector block. The easiest part of the task was ordering the part online. You made it unbelievably easy. I was amazed!