24JN-7V8 Maytag Range - Instructions

Removed the 3 screws fastening the ign. bracket to pan housing & gas burner, pulled out the assy., removed the 2 wire nuts, removed the shield from old ign. ceramic, slipped in new ignitor ceramic, pushed the assy. back into pan opening, replaced the 3 screws & fired it up. Gas came on within 30 sec. of ignition. Put a pie in for 45min. & completed the cycle. Enjoyed the pie. Thanks for the help Parts Select.

was very easy following the instruction in YOUR web site. I feel very thank full !!!!!, because you help me a lot!!!!!!

Pulled out the plug, pulled out the stove, removed the oven door, pulled out the lower shelf and racks. Used a nutdriver to remove the 2 screws from the bracket, disconnected the old ignitor, new ignitor was an exact replacement, put back in the screws, pushed back the stove and plugged it back in....Was back in business in a matter of seconds!!

I removed the various trays and racks to gain access to the oven igniter. I removed the one screw that held the wiring in place that goes into the body of the oven and pulled out the wires. I removed the wire nuts and safe ended the hot wires. I removed the two screws that held the igniter in place and replaced it with the new one. I reconnected the wiring with the wire nuts , pushed the wiring back into the body of the and stuffed new packing material into hole and reattached the plate on the back of the oven. Turned on the oven and it ignited immediately. A very easy job to complete. I would suggest to others to turn off the power. I knew what I was doing by working it "hot".

The Just Answer website answer felt certain that the igniter was the problem, and hence I ordered a new igniter.
I removed the oven bottom plate and the cover over the valve connection to get an overview of the job. Was really not necessary. Actual repair was only to remove the two screws holding the igniter, pull the cord to get to the connector, and switch igniters. Then put everything back together again. Job done. Oven works great.

We replaced Flat Style Oven Igniter simply by removing the oven racks, then removed the bottom of the oven. Used a Philips screwdriver to remove the old igniter, placed new one in. The wires to the oven from the ingniter just needed to be in a clip. Tightened the screws and replaced bottom & racks. Oven worked wonderful after this, like a brand new oven!

My son removed the pan above the ignition switch, using only a screwdriver. He checked it against the excellent website photos for compatibility with what you had to offer. I order it and it was here in Houston within 2 days of the order. Took 20 minutes to remove and compare and 7 minutes to replace the old with the new. A piece of cake.
Best thing was that the oven/stove is 29 years old and I thought I would have to buy a new one (approximately $700 for comparable)and I am a Senior Citizen. So for $48.98 and lots of elbow grease to clean the stainless steel top etc. I have a dandy, operating, dependable piece of cooking equipment !!!!

the igniter would glow but the gas would not flow...
i would have guessed the valve was bad, but every one else thought it was the igniter.. they were right. verry easy to install. the stove worjks like new.

Un-did the old one put in the new. Iam 63 years old and a woman. Repair men wanted 500.00 plus to come out and repair I did it for cost of igniter in 15 min. Oven works great! Thanks parts select for making it so easy!

2 screws easy to remove and plug in the wire. job done.

Broiler lighting fine but main oven burner not lighting. I deduced the oven igniter was most likely the point of failure. Decided to replace empirically rather than time and money for service call. Process was about as easy as replace a computer part. Removed pan and flameguard. Unplugged part from below (after removing drawer). Such a simple plug I didn't bother to throw the breaker / power down the oven. Pulling it out to get to wall plug not an option. Unscrewed old part, saw a flaw had developed in the element. Screwed on the new part, plugged it in, inserted insulation in the hole. Tested for lighting - lit first time. Replaced guard and pan, oven has worked reliably since. Research time was 5x the repair time, but in all a fraction of time and money to have a "pro."

I was afraid I would have to remove the built in oven from the wall to do the repair but it was simple. I pulled on the wire a bit and the connector popped out of the hole in the back. After that it was as simple as removing 2 screws, replacing the unit, plugging it in and pushing the new connection out the hole in the back. They included a piece of insulation with the kit that I then forced into the hole to protect the new plug from the heat of the oven.

Much easier than I thought it was going to be. In about 10 minutes I had the oven working again.

Figured it had to be the ignitor. I didn't use a multi-meter. Since the appliance was so old, if the $50 igniter didn't do the trick, I'd just replace the oven. Install was super easy, and now oven works great!!!

I unpluged the electrical cord first. Then pulled the stove away from wall. Next removed oven racks, the bottom of the oven. Then removed the deflector plate over the burner. The next step I removed the broil pan. Now the oven area is empty. Nice and easy to remove the igniter with nut driver. Two screws and wire nut that are behind the stove wall. Now I just reversed the procedure. Very easy. The only thing I'm not sure where the insulation block go's. The wires go through back oven wall hole. There was no insulation there before? So I put a small piece just behind the igniter over the wire. Will this catch fire I don't know? If someone knows let me know. Other than that it works.

I unpluged the oven, removed the oven door by slideing it off the hinges, removed the racks, took the bottom pan out exposing the igniter,while attempting to remove the 2 screws holding the igniter to the bracket, I discovered that they where stripped so I had to use vise grips to remove them. I went to the hardware store bought replacements and installed the igniter. I then removed the protective cover over the wires, stripped them put on the wire nuts provided with the kit put the protective shield back pluged the unit in turned it on, checked it, then put it back together. The stripped screws were the only difficult part.