MGR6775ADQ Maytag Range - Instructions

I had to pull the range out from the wall and loosen the rear cover to free the connector for the sensor as it got stuck on a corner guide. Put the new sensor in, rear cover back on, range back in place and tested the oven. Oven heats fast now and keeps a more even temp. Makes me wonder how long I was trying to cook with a bad sensor.

I have and in the wall Magic Chef oven CGW3330ADW seriel 10799876US that came the purchase of my home 10yrs. ago. After a black out and 2 brown outs my oven would not start and the F3 code is beeping and the "door lock" light was on but the door was unlocked. The clock was working fine, but could not use the timer or set the temperature. I googled "FLASHING F3 code" and one of the results was the comment thread on the Parts Select website. When I clicked the link I read several customers sharing their story that was very similar to mine. I was able to click on a video and see a short demonstration on "HOW EASY" it was to replace the "Short Oven Sensor Kit." I though, "Yea right!" I left a comment on that You Tube video with my make and model and a brief explanation of my problem. I received a reply to my comment with in 24 hours, confirming what other consumers had shared...The "Short Oven Sensor Kit" was needing to be replaced. I ordered the part for around $30 VERY late on Thursday evening and when I woke on Friday morning, I a shipping confirmation email. I received it VERY early on Saturday morning! I was able to replace the part very easily with in about 10 minutes. I was VERY LUCKY that I was able to to the repair WITHOUT having to remove the oven for the wall! I would have had to pay for help if I had to remove it from the wall. The Parts Select web site save me over $400 which was the estimate for the parts and labor from a local appliance repair business! I was told that it would probably be cheaper or about the same as buying a new over which was their recommendation. I am so glad that I decided to do the research and in less that 1 hour I had my order placed. Thank You Parts Select!

Cut off the electricity at the junction box. Removed two screws from the sensor at the back of the oven. Then pulled the sensor with the wire out of the installation hole in the back of the oven. Disconnected the quick connect plug from the sensor and reconnected the new part. Reversed the process and screwed the two screens back into the oven wall. Turned the electricity back on and started up the oven. (Everything ran well for about three days when the oven again signaled "F-5" indicating the oven was again not functioning properly. Restarted the oven and is currently running properly. My spouse does a lot of baking with this oven for cookies, roasts, etc. Next time it fails I will be forced to call a repairman as I believe there is something wrong other then the heat sensor.

My wife watched the instruction video on the computer and replaced the oven sensor with a screwdriver in just a few minutes with no problems. Just make sure you order the right sensor. She ordered the short one by mistake and had to return it and order the Long Oven Sensor.

very simple fix. I removed the bake burner cover (the blue cover on the bottom of the oven), under that is the oven baffle which is held on with one wing nut and removed that. Then remove the oven bake igniter screws(two on the side), remove the orifice cover scew and remove then remove the oven bake burner gently. once these parts are off you need to remove the screws on the back of the oven ( I believe theres about 4 or 5 along each side and there are 4 on the bottom of the large metal plate. you only need to remove the large metal cover every thing else stays put. Disconnect the lower back burner attatchment which just clips into the connecter. once thats removed the part should come out easlily from the inside of the oven. Now take the new bake ignitor and feed the wires through the opening on the inside of the oven that allows the wires to come through to the back of the oven(you may need to feel around for the wires and move some of the insulation aside to feel them) once the wires come through the back connect the new part by clipping it to the harness the old part was removed from. At this point you should be able to reassemble the back of the oven exactly the way it was removed.Now go back to the inside of the oven, replace the bake burner gently over the bake burner orifice and put the orifice cover back on and reattach with it's screw. Position the bake igniter back into place on the side of the bake burner and replace the two screws previously removed. Once thats in place its time to put the oven baffle back on and secure with the wing nut and the last step is to place the bake burner cover. Just set the oven to bake and it should be working if thats in fact the problem..Good luck. Took me less than 15 minutes to fix.Some find it easier to remove the oven door but I didn't need to do this since I had enough room to access the front and the back of the oven without any trouble.

A fairly simple fix that this website did a nice job helping me diagnose and select the part. Only tricky part was the electrical connector on the range side had been cut so I had to splice the wires which wasn't a big problem. Just take your time to find the nuts and replace one part with another.

followed instructions and slid clips where instructed

My used stove had been dropped by the previous owner. While I could live with the minor scratches on one side the wooden shims holding up one corner were annoying. A new leveling leg was less than $2. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to straighten the mounting hole and screwed the new leg in. This used stove was originally $2000 but I bought it for $999. the new leg plus shipping was about $10. What a deal.

shut off gas and unpluged stove pulled it away from wall removed(2)screws from (top left inside oven)unpluged old sensor in back(left side)and pull old wire thru feed wire from new sensor thru hold pluged in put(2)screws back in done(***used drinking straw and tape to feed new wire thru hole***)

This is a no brainer. I am only doing this because you asked. Pull out the stove, tilt it back, remove broken leg, install new leg.

It was easy because the clips were already on the new door gasket. Just had to remove old door gasket and replace it with the new one. Very simple job.

Removed old gasket and replaced with new gasket'

I tried to take it out from the inside as the vidio shows. But it would not come out far enough. I pulled out the stove and removed back sheet metal panel. Unpluged the electric, Unhooked the temp sensor,pulled it out from the oven side. Put the new one through the hole,and rehooked it up. And got to clean up the dust and my missing oatmeal I spilled a while back. Turned it on. Checked it with a spare temp gage. Works so far.

The feedback from other customers was excellent. It does come apart in layers, and it helped me to number each layer with a sticky note as I dismantled it. I also kept the screws for each layer right next to the layer, so that I knew how many screws each layer used. The only thing I can add is that the tabs to remove the innermost glass from the frame are on one of the shorter sides of the rectangular frame. The tabs are part of the frame, and when you bend them outward the side of the frame detaches and you can replace the glass easily. In addition to the #1 Philips screwdriver, all I needed was a pair of pliers to bend the tabs.

Remove the big back panel (5 phillips screws). Confirm voltage is present when attempting to start the oven by unplugging the PROPER ignitor. I say proper because initially I thought that the broil ignitor was the culprit. Very upper ignitor is the broiler ignitor and the next one down is the ignitor for the upper oven. You will notice that the ignitor plugs differ between broiler and oven. New ignitor should have a male end. Once I confirmed that voltage was present when attempting to turn on the upper oven and probing the ignitor terminal plug, I proceeded to remove the lower cover inside the oven (2 screws very front side) and remove the burner assembly. (First you'll need to remove the oven door, easy, just tilt out part way and slide it up and off of the rails). The ignitor is mounted to the burner assembly. It's inevitable, the 5/16 hex screws (x2) will absolutely strip out so make sure you have some extras on hand. Replace the ignitor, reinstall and you should be good to go! I've read that you shouldn't touch the element with your fingers as this will compromise the life of the ignitor. Good luck!