68EN-3CX Maytag Range - Instructions

extremely easy to replace the burner. I just pulled out the old burner and replaced with new one. The whole process took less than ten minutes.

Since it was a plug-in burner, only needed to pull it out and put the other one in.

Another thing I would like to say is that I was very well pleased with the service from partselect.com. I was unable to find the burners in my area.
Was very helpful in selecting the part and was very efficient in sending it.

Removed the old broken burner and slid the burner prongs into place. Very EASY to replace!

Simply removed new burner from box and plugged it in! Very pleased with 3 day speedy delivery. Confident my 32 year old cooktop will continue to give many more years of service with any parts needed from PartSelect.

After finding the correct Y-frame, inches and watts in a surface burner, it was easy to just slide in the slots. Tested, and it was perfect. Now it makes all of the other burners look bad. Thanks. Your site was the only one, that I was sure I had the correct part.

My husband took the plastic cover off and took out old bulb and screwed in the new one. Then put the cover back on.

very easy

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector

I ordered the 2 burners that were not working. When I got the burners, I discovered that one of the burners was still working and the wiring under that on had burned out. So I ordered the little box kit and repaired it. I only needed to strip wires and twist together and replace the small box. Now all are working and I am cooking with all four burners again. All for about $50.

Once oven was removed from wall not to bad

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

Pug it in! That's it!

removed old and installed new

Range is a 1967 model Maytag. First I removed drawer under oven, unplugged the range and pulled it out from the wall. Removed oven door by positioning it in the partly-open detent position, then pulled up to remove the door. Next I removed 7 screws per side panel: 3 in front and 3 in back, and one on top under cooktop, which retains the cooktop hold-down clip. With side panels removed, I noted the oven door spring position on the intact left side, then replaced the right-side spring first using the same spring adjustment positions. As I replaced the spring, I applied lithium grease to the spring hook pivot points as well as the spring coils where they rub against the interior wall. I repeated the process on the left side. I reassembled the side panels, oiled the door hinges and reinstalled the oven door. Reinstalled range and bottom drawer. The oven door operates like new, and the new springs are totally quiet — good for another 47 years!

My son-in-law installed the new element. First turn off the electricity and remove oven door. Then unscrew all connections to the element.The back electrical wires come out from the top back oven. The bracket screw faces the oven and the electrical wires are so short there is very little room for a screw driver (get the shortest one you can find..abt as big as your thumb if possible).Once that was out the element came out with no problems.Then it's just reversing the step. Again, that back electical bracket is difficult to get to for install. Also, the new screws in our kit were Philips, but the old ones were flat so check those out before turning off the oven light.