CER1360BAW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Unscrewed two Phillips screws holding the element in the back of the oven, pulled out the element and the leads, disconnected the wires, removed element from oven and reversed the process to install new one. One most important and critical maneuver - the element is connected to the hot wire on the left side and the switch shuts off the element by disconnecting electrical flow to the neutral side of the power so its not enough to just have the oven turned off - makes one heck of a spark when the wire touches the stove panel when you pull the wire through the hole (220 at 60 amps).

I checked out Maytag.com - found the parts page on my computer - found the top oven element - ordered it from Part Select - it arrived just a few days later......

Before it arrived, I removed the damaged electric element from top of oven - easy.

Oven was ready for me to install new element - the video on your website was perfect - it helped me remove the old & install the new element from Part Select. It took me about an hour.

Thank you for your fast service, good instructions & the video!

I'm an 84 year old female. Did this by myself! Thank you!

used the supplied parts...very easy. The parts were exact replacements.

First off, I ordered the part to be delivered 2-3 business days. I ordered this online on Sunday, so I figured it wouldn't show up until at the earliest on Thursday. We got it on Tuesday. Fantastic. Once I got it I pulled the range out and unplugged it. Next I removed the two screws holding the old element in place with a phillips screw driver. Pulling the old element out carefully I removed the two wires from either end. Next I attached the wired to the new element and screwed in place. Fast and easy! Plugged the range back in and we were cooking.

1) Unplugged the electrical cord and removed the oven door (only when easy); and, jockeyed the oven into better working area.
2) Removed about 9 screws holding rear sheetmetal backing plate to disconnect each of 2 electrical wires from the old element.
3) Removed 2 screws holding element to back of oven and 2 screws from small bracket supporting end of element to top of oven.
4) Replacement element was severely damaged. It was at the very bottom of a box 20 by 15 by 15.5 inches high with the large continuous bubble wrap stacked only on top. Each of the wire ends were sharply bent; one almost 180 deg. pointing in the opposite direction, and the other about 120 deg. The element itself was about 4-5 inches out of square. Using two large needlenose pliers I carefully bent each wire back to its proper place. Next I carefully exerted pressure on the element to gradually form it back to as near its correct shape as possible. (Only the inside of the shipping box showed the signs of possible damage.)
5) Installation- The element, from inside the oven, was placed back through the two holes in the rear of the oven and secured with 2 screws.
6) The bracket supporting the front of the element was slid onto the element and attached to the top of the oven.
7) Attached the 2 electrical oven wires to the 2 element wires, making sure there was good clearance to prevent any short circuit, plugged the oven cord in to 230volts, and checked it out with power to the broiler to give myself some confidence that the damaged wires would not quickly break. It seemed to work and I unplugged the oven.
8) Reinstalled the backing plate with the original screws, plugged oven back in, and moved the oven back to its place and replaced its door. It is working and my wife is cooking.

I've been trying to remove the bracket at the roof of upper oven so I can get to the broiler element itself. The screws are in place so tight, the won't move. I've used regular as well as ratchet screwdrivers and the screws still won't move. I don't want to spray WD 40 in oven because of a possible fire hazard, so I haven't changed out element yet. Tried calling customer service for advise, but to no avail. All other screws loosen easily. What should I do next.

1) removed heating elements. 2) removed drip pans. 3) installed new drip pans. 4) reinstalled heating elements

I simply pulled out the old coils and plugged in the new ones. I saved the little pieces that accompanied each coil, because I didn't know what they were used for.

I removed the old and repaced with new. I never ordered anything one day and got it the next. I'm impressed

i read the installation instructions and followed them. first i made sure that each heating element was off. next i carefully removed each one (a total of 4) from it's plug and lifted the worn out drip-bowl up and replaced it with the new one. finally i pluged in (a total of 4) heating elements and turned them on to make sure them were working and they did.

remove elements and replace bowles

Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.

Very easy, with only the removal of 2 screws.

unscrewed element from oven, traded wire connections to new element, screwed new element in - saved myself a $75 service call

Was glad to get the correct ones for a 30 year old stove. Had already wasted $12 shipping trying to order from someone else.