9112WUT Magic Chef Range - Instructions

This is simple for most people - unscrew and remove the bottom oven floor pan. There is the igniter, removed with two screws with a 1/4 nutdriver. However, my problem was that when I unclipped the old igniter, I dropped the over part of the connection, it fell down the hole, through the insulation, to the bottom of the stove where the wiring is. I had to pull out the stove to get to the connection, push it back up the hole to the oven, then install the igniter. My advice: do no lose your grip on the oven wire whatever you do. Otherwise, it was a snap, even for a klutz.

Bought the igniter, replaced it with the old one and it works great.

Unplugged the oven from electricity. Took off the bottom(Floor) of the inside of the oven. Checked that the new part looked the same as the old. It did. Then I checked the back of the oven, had to take off a cover, and the connector in the back was not the same. I did not that it had the same two wires so rather than send it back, I figured I could make it work. I started to take off the old piece by unscrewing the two screws. They were a bit rusted, one came off the other I had to hacksaw and twist off. I cut the old connecting end off of the old part and the end off of the new part stripped the cover off the ends of the wires, and put the old end to the new part, having also put the old wire covers over the new wires. then twisted the end together and wrapped the in electrical tape. I had to take the piece that held the new part out of the oven the tried to use the one semi-good old screw, then some newer screws, then finally used some new nuts and bolts to connect the part tightly. put everything back together and it worked.

It was really easy. Watched a brief tutorial on the Internet and went to town. Followed the instructions and had a working oven in no time at all.

To replace Gas valve, turn off gas to oven and shut off electrical. Remove all oven bottoms (lift out)access to gas valve is in back of broiler section. Remove cover over gas valve(2)screws, remove gas line attached to gas valve, remove wires from gas valve remove (3) screws from mount holding the valve. Pull valve assembly out and remove valve from mount. Install new valve in reverse order.

The igniters burn out periodically, light bulbs, and have to be replaced. There are two of them, one for the oven and one for the broiler. To get access to the one for the oven, I removed the shelves and the floor of the oven. It lifts out. Two screws hold the igniter to a mounting bracket by the burner. The wires on the igniter pass through a hole in the back of the oven. There was not be enough slack in the wire to get the connector through the hole, so I had to get acess to it from below. I removed the storage drawer from the range. At the back, behind the drawer is a panel that's held on by two screws. I removed the panel and disconnected the igniter wires. I fed the new igniter wire through the hole in the oven and connected it. Then I replaced the panel and the drawer, screwed the igniter in place and replaced the floor of the oven.

Removing the oven door by partly opening it and pulling it up out of the hinge made access to the igniter much easier. Access to the igniter was easy. Just remove the baking shelves and lift out the bottom panel. I removed the two screws holding the old igniter. One screw was difficult to remove because of oxidation, and required some tinkering as the threads were stripped. But once the screws were removed, the igniter was easy to replace and connect to the gas controller with a simple plugin connection.

Suspected the igniter, and verified by reading comments on your parts site. The mounting screws were frozen so I used larger screws. Piece of cake! Wa La!

There were NO directions in the box, only a schematic. I was unable to locate the old one as my husband had removed it. So I had to guess which color wire connected to which plug. Good thing I guessed right the 1st time! so you might want to include installation instructions going forward.

Followed the instructions that were provided me when I ordered the Gas Oven Igniter

This oven is part of a stand-alone gas (propane) stove. It was purchased and installed in July, 2005. The igniter I ordered from PartSelect arrived as promised. But the connecter on the new igniter did not match the connecter on the old one. I had to either find an igniter with a compatible connecter or splice the old connecter to the new igniter; I chose to splice. Now, I'm not a real handyman, and I'm especially skittish around electricity. But I found two wire connecters (plastic tube-like things with metal interiors). I stripped about a 1/4-inch from all four wires and inserted them into the wire connecters, making sure the igniter was properly placed so the screw holes lined up. Then I used the crimper tool to crimp the wires together. I did a pull test to make sure the wires were secure, replace the now connected wires in their proper place and turned the oven on. It worked! On this particular stove, you'll need a screwdriver to remove the vent cover, exposing the igniter wires. Due to the gas connection in the back of the stove, you can only pull the stove out so far. So, there's not a lot of room to work in the back of this stove; that's why it took a lot longer to complete this job than the wiring inself. I'd say no more than fifteen minutes. Of course, if all the parts are compatible, even less. Good luck!

My top burners and broiler were working fine so I knew it was not a gas pressure issue,after reading other peoples oven issues I felt comfortable that my problem was the oven igniter, the igniter was only building about 50 to 75 percent of the normal glow/heat needed, thereby not creating enough heat to trip the sensor that opens the oven burner gas valve. 2 Screws hold a drip pan which after removed allow access to the igniter. 2 Screws hold the igniter in. You need to access the rear of the stove to plug in the new igniter connector at a 1 screw access panel in the center of the back of stove. My oven has been working great since the repair. I would recomend partselect anytime, I ordered the wrong igniter, the diagram is confusing so be carefull , and had to send it back , I got my refund in less than a week. Good luck from beautiful western new york state.

Took off oven door. Took out oven racks. Took out bottom oven cover above igniter. Igniter is held in by 2 screws,took them out with a small socket. Went to back of stove and unhooked white plug in - (part of igniter) Thats it. About as easy as it gets. Just reversed the process putting in the new one. Took about 25 minutes. It would have taken less time but I had a problem with one of the screws. Probably from the heat. The oven is 9 years old.

The seal is suspended by metal clips at each end, which are inserted into holes in the oven box. The clips on the new seal were a bit too wide to fit into the holes. so I drilled the holes larger, and it worked fine.

Initially found timer/board faulty. Replaced with new. OK. Then found the ignitor lighting but the flame not starting for the burner. Upon doing research on this oven, I found the ignitor opens the oven valve by a high amperage draw. The ignitor was starting but not glowing bright enough, or drawing enough amps to open the gas valve. If the ceramic on the ignitor is gray,or "chalky" looking, change it. It may open the valve faster and your oven will perform better. Just because the ignitor is lit doesn't mean its working correctly.