9112WUT Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Replaced gas oven ignitor

I started with pulling the base of the oven to examine the mechanism underneath. The hardest part of the whole thing was working the wire connection past the metal back of the oven. It required prying the metal away from the frame rail and wedging the wire connection through. Other than that it was unplugging the old, plugging in the new, and a few screws to reattach the igniter, heat sheilds, and oven base.

Checked troubleshooting guide on website / ordered part / replaced part by removing two screws in oven on bottom pan/ removed inside oven bottom for easiy access/ removed two screws from bracket holding down the heating element/separated the electrical plug in back releasing the wires to heating element/ installed the new element with two screws / connected the electrical plug/ installed the bottom panel inside oven / installed two screws inside oven on bottom panel. Checked operation of unit- gas lit ok - pushbutton panel did not increase heat seting properly/ dismantled the control panel / dismanteled the circuit board / found remains of several roaches inside circuit board recess/ cleaned all pushbutton points and re-assembled unit - all worked fine except when oven burner went off - the gas valve would not shut off completely - leaving a small flame burning at the gaaas valve orifice "DANGEROUS". I checked troubleshooting guide again / ordered a new valve - installed - (did not come with a new Propane orifice ) - had to use old one ( should have either asked me or just sent one when I ordered) - received new valve - installed with old Propane orifice - all works well now.

First I unplugged the range, turned off the gas to the oven and disconnected the gas line from the oven. I pulled the oven out to gain access to the rear of the unit and unplugged the old igniter. Next, I removed the oven door, removed two screws to the floor of the oven and removed it. I then removed the metal covering above the gas component allowing full access to the igniter. I removed two screws from the igniter and removed it. I positioned the new igniter and replaced the two screws. I replaced the covering over the gas component, replaced the oven floor and put the oven door back on. I went to the rear of the unit and plugged in the new igniter. I then reconnected the gas line to the oven range and checked for leaks, No leaks were found and I pushed the oven unit back into place. I pushed the Bake button and the igniter started igniting the oven.

Job completed.

1. Turn off the gas (propane)
2. Unplug the oven.
3. disconnect the gas line and pull the oven out.
4. remove the back panel to access the igniter.
5 disconnect the igniter.
6. unscrew igniter/gas assembly and remove from oven (two screws).
7. unscrew igniter (two screws)
8. replace igniter with new.
9. reassemble in reverse order.
10. turn on stove.
11. Happy wife, happy life.

We ordered the replacement igniter and basically was very easy to replace. We ended up spending $50 for the part as opposed to spending $261.00 that Sears was going to charge.

First I tried oven ignitor. Did not cure the problem. Then ordered short sensor and it cured the problem. Pull range out & unplug unit.From inside unit remove two screws holding short sensor in &pull out from inside. Unhook sensor. Slide in new sensor& secure with two screws. Had to remove two screws on back of oven to plug in sensor to existing plug. Very simple job.

We took the interior floor out, pulled the stove away from counter, before that turned all electricity to the house off. Then we unscrewed the ignitor inside then underneath unplugged it and plugged in the new one, cleaned to oven and screwed the ignitor in and replaced the interior floor and we were done.

My oven would not work. It took longer & longer to fire, finally died. I did an online search & found partselect.com, with it's very helpful troubleshooting info, and somebody posted info that 80-90% of the time it's the ignitor that has failed. I ordered it Sunday night, it arrived Tuesday. I took the door off for easy access, took the bottom of the oven out, removed the flame shield and replaced the ignitor. I tested it and it worked! The hardest part was moving the stove away from the wall & threading the ignitor plug thru the back of the oven. The cheapest appliance repair visit would have been $89 + cost of parts. Sears charges $129. I think I saved at least $100, thanks to partselect.com.

I was sure my problem was due to a gas ingiter that was no longer working. I read about others that had the same problem as I did. I ordered the part from Partselect because they had a 30 day no hassle parts return policy.
I removed the oven racks and 4 screws to get to the igniter.
I unpluged the igniter, put the new one in, and replaced the racks. Very simple and easy to do.

I removed the cover protecting the igniter. I pulled the stove away from the wall to get at the connect for the igniter. I loosened the 2 screws which held the igniter.
Took the new igniter ran the wire to the back to the connection and mounted the igniter with the 2 screws. Turned on the oven to make sure it works and it did. Turned off the oven, replace the cover and pushed the stove back in place. No big Deal!
Your web site was very helpful. Thank you so much!

very easy

First i removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the wire out of the hole and disconected the plug. then plug in the new one, put the two screws back in, and checked it to see if it worked,It worked like a new one! So as my reward my wife baked me cookies!

It took all of 10 mins. Open oven door slightly lift to remove.took out shelves and bottom of oven,lift at back to remove.Two screws hold the Igniter, was able to pull the connector into the oven to change. Oven works great!

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.