31203PAQ Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Firmly grasp burner turn counter clockwise while lifting. Photograph the location of the wires. Remove with a Phillips head screwdriver. The igniter will lift and turn one quarter turn then pull through bottom. Reverse the steps to install the new igniter. Test knew igniter. Put tools away

Unplugged the Rang. Removed the oven door. Removed the lower cover for the Bottom heater. Removed the two screws that held the igniter to the burner. Went to back of oven to disconnect the igniter. removed the old igniter. Installed the new Igniter in the reverse order.

Removed the drawer from under the stove then unscrewed the access panel in the back (two phillips head screws). Rather than take it off altogether I just swung it to one side.

The ignitor electrical connector required two hands to disconnect and it was a bit of a reach but came apart easily enough once I got hold of it.

Removed the racks and bottom from the oven. the bottom is held in by two pins in the back that you just slide toward the front then lift it out. I did not bother to remove the oven door, but some people might.

Then removed the two hex head screws holding the ignitor on and pulled the connector out of the hole leading to the bottom.

Installation is the reverse of removal The electrical connector was reluctant to back down the hole, but went with a little wiggling and pulling from underneath. Once you get it back down there the connector is keyed, so you can't get it wrong.

Piece of cake, really.

Total repair time: about 30 minutes, including the mandatory halfway beer break.

Removed oven door by opening slightly and lifting straight up. Pulled out racks and removed bottom of oven. Unscrewed wingnut and removed burner shield. Removed 2 screws that hold igniter and unplugged the connection. Reverse the procedure to put it all back together.
Be patient, it takes a few moments for it to begin heating when you first turn it on.
So easy a woman can do it ! I know,(I am one).

I first removed the screws inside the oven,let the tube that the flames come out of hang down,removed the screws from the igniter. Then I took the cover off the back of the stove and unplugged the old igniter and plugged in the new one. I put all screws back and put every thing back in place and the oven has been heating up every since. Thank you parts select. My husband is a otr trucker and won't be home until the 20th of this month. One less item on his "honey do list".

First remove the burner head by turning counter clockwise to unlock. Use pier to remove the wires from the igniter and burner. Once both burners heads are removed from 1 side, use screwdriver to remove both screws that is holding the burner orifice fitting assembly. You want to repeat the process for the other side. Once both sides are done, you can lift the range cover to gain access to the broken burner orifice fitting assembly. Use adjustable wrench to unscrew the two nuts that are holding the assembly in. Remove assembly and replace with new. Reverse the disassembly process then you are done.

It's happened before and the igniter has always been the problem. This time, however, the mounting holes were slightly off and had to be drilled out. The connector didn't mate up and so both had to be cut off, the wire stripped back and wire nuts used to make the connection. In the end, it all worked out. I guess since its kind of old, you can't stock every component for every oven. Oven works perfectly now.

I expected to see a thermocouple and a heating element next to the gas valve but after reviewing other PartSelect stories from people with a similar problem I realized that the heating element also serves as the switch. Apparently as the heating element is energized by the oven control it draws more amps. The gas valve is allowed to open at a specific level corresponding to a sufficiently glowing heating element. I ordered a new heating element. The part received was made up of two pieces. The heating element and the metal mounting bracket. The element was identical but assumingly due to the age of my stove the bracket was slightly different. Fortunatly I was able to slide the new element into the old bracket. The only other obsticle was that the new element came with a two conductor connector and the old was installed with ceramic wire nuts. The connector was cut off and the ceramic wire nuts were reused. Its working fine.

Husband did repair. He removed the
the ignitor. Was a little difficult to remove. I couldn't tell you what he did and in what order.

I removed the oven racks, the bottom of the stove and a v-shaped cover that was over the heating element. The old gas ignitor screwed off easily after I put W-D 40 on the nuts. I un ooked the old gas igniter and replaced it with the new one. The oven lit immediately after I replaced everything. I am very proud of my self, I feel like a femal Bob Villa. I almost bought a new range. Boy am I happy!

Simple... unscrew the 2 screws and unplug the electrical connection to uninstall and just the opposite to install.

one screw holds the cover to the connector. one screw for the burner tube to the oven frame. two screws hold the ignitor bracket/assembly to the burner tube. that's it. take four screws off and disconnect. connect and put four screws back on.

Ordered the broiler igniter that matched my model from part select and installed. Easy and part works as it should. Only took a few days to get here and saved me $40 by not purchasing at a local parts store as well. Will use part select if there are any future needs.

I removed the screws and unplugged the connectors and i inserted the new igniter which was glowwing much brighter than the old one which gave me an indication that it has the amount of temperature to open the gas valve.Idid a good job.

Remove the oven door by opening halfway and lifting door away from stove. Removed racks and bottom pan from oven area exposing the gas bar and vertical mount igniter. Next remove bottom storage door. With phillips screwdriver remove 2 screws securing rear cover plate in back of storage area, accessing the igniter connection, and unplug the plug. Next back in oven, remove 2 5/16 sheet metal screws securing igniter with a nut driver and remove igniter by getly pulling disconnected end thru to oven. Now reverse process, install new vertical mount igniter and push connection down thru to storage area, then reconnect wire connection and put cover plate back on.
At this piont I turned oven on and checked igniter, it glowed red right away and the oven lit right up. Put storage door, oven door, bottom oven panel, and racks back in and done. Took 15 minutes tops, and anyone can do this, super easy. My oven would sometimes take half hour to preheat to 350,if it even lit, now 5 minutes, and it lights every time. Save the cost of a repair man folks, this one can be done by any weekend warrior.
I would just like to note....if you are uncomfortable with disconnecting wire plugs and plugging them back in, just unplug the oven from the wall as well before changing out the part, just to be safe.