6294697 Litton Range - Instructions

Ordered the part. when it arrived-quite speedily, I just unpacked it and put the cotton gasket around the glass and screwed it to the proper place in the oven. Very easy.

Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.

My husband did the repair. He had difficulty removing the old element, probably because it had been in there for 20 years. Once he got the old element out, it took less than 30 minutes to install the new one.

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

After examining the burner unit I noticed that one of the male contact spades was burned and look deformed. After removing the spade I discovered that it had been originally manufactured incorrectly. I went on line to try and find the part. I found it at this site . I ordered 2 of the spades and replaced the deformed spade and another one that looked like it had gotten a little hot. She tried the unit and it worked perfectly. She had not used that burner unit for a very lengthy time. The investigation of the problem took a little time, but the repair went very fast. Moral is :" If a spade doesn't look right, it probably isn't", but either the individual spade or plug can be replaced. This site is now my "GO TO" place for parts.

Make sure you turn breaker off install both wires and screw the bracket into the back of the oven. You could use a phillips screw driver but with my ovens age seemed like it wanted to strip it out so I used a socket instead. Turn on the breaker and it works like new

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

lift out old filter, wash, put in new filter.

Remove Vent Cover, Remove Old Filter, Replace With New Filter, Replace Vent Cover, Repair Complete

Removed two nut screws (accessed with oven door open) with nutdriver, panel dropped out. Transferred wiring one-by-one to new switch, removed old switch with allen wrench, installed new switch, replaced panel. Done! However, the problem is not corrected and all other possibilities have been explored with no solution in site. Ideas needed.

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

Disconnected power from the stove. First I removed the down draft vent cover on stove top, then the two screws that held the switch plate in place, then used a wood chisel to pry the switch housing retaining washers off. Removed the remains of the old switch, Installed new switch, attached wires, and reinstalled switch plate. Placed vent cover on stove top and reconnected power.

Opened oven door, took four screws out of the front control panel, removed the two screws holding the burner control switch to the front panel, removed the wires from the old switch one at a time and installed them on the new switch. secured the new switch to the front panel, put the four screws back into the front panel, and closed the oven door. Real easy repair.

I contacted a local appliance repair store who didn't know what I was talking about. I looked online and the store called me back to tell me the part would probably be $75.00. I took the broken part out of the door frame and found the exact part online at your site, and ordered it for $14.00. Received the part within 2 days and put it in in 10 minutes.