6294697 Litton Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Al from Monroe Twp, NJ
- Parts Used:
- W11120791
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
broken switch
Took the (6) screws holding the top of the stove out, then removed the switch screws(2). Then lifted the top, so as I could reach and get at the switch. And then I repeated the above. It was alot easier the second time. Duh I erred the first time and replaced the wrong one and before I relized it, I opened the switch to check out. All in all. I still got satisfaction from doing it myself. Thanks Parts Select
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- Customer:
- Tom from Lenexa, KS
- Parts Used:
- W11120791
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner switch on stove top burned out
First I turned off the circuit breaker at the control panel to my Jenn-Air stove-top. At 220-volts, don't take any chances with electricity!
Then I removed two screws that hold the burner switch panel in place and lifted up the panel to expose the wires that are connected to all 4 of the burner switches, the exhaust fan and pilot lights that indicate if a burner is turned on.
I used a circuit tester to determine that the power was indeed off to the switches. Again, it is extremely important to respect 220-volts of electricity.
I ensured that all of the wires were already labeled the same as the terminal connections on the switch (i.e. H-1, H-2, P, etc.). If they are not, label them yourself with masking tape around each wire. Then I removed each of the wires connected to the burned out switch with a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Next I removed the two screws attaching the burner switch to the panel.
To install the new switch, repeat all of these directions in reverse, making sure to attach each labeled wire to the correct terminal on the burner switch.
Turn the circuit back on at the circuit breaker. Then test the burner switch and see if the burner heats up. Hopefully, you'll be cooking in no time...............
Then I removed two screws that hold the burner switch panel in place and lifted up the panel to expose the wires that are connected to all 4 of the burner switches, the exhaust fan and pilot lights that indicate if a burner is turned on.
I used a circuit tester to determine that the power was indeed off to the switches. Again, it is extremely important to respect 220-volts of electricity.
I ensured that all of the wires were already labeled the same as the terminal connections on the switch (i.e. H-1, H-2, P, etc.). If they are not, label them yourself with masking tape around each wire. Then I removed each of the wires connected to the burned out switch with a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Next I removed the two screws attaching the burner switch to the panel.
To install the new switch, repeat all of these directions in reverse, making sure to attach each labeled wire to the correct terminal on the burner switch.
Turn the circuit back on at the circuit breaker. Then test the burner switch and see if the burner heats up. Hopefully, you'll be cooking in no time...............
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- Customer:
- Richard from Howell, NJ
- Parts Used:
- W11120791
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
burner would not get hot, switch did not feel right
It would have been nice if basic instructions were supplied ( eg. how to remove switch panel ) but it went rather smoothly.
First killed power the electric stove.
I then removed the screws from the bottom of the panel and then pried the top of the control panel down and then out. I copied the positioning and wire colors.Removed wires from prongs, removed the two screws, replaced old switch with new one .
First killed power the electric stove.
I then removed the screws from the bottom of the panel and then pried the top of the control panel down and then out. I copied the positioning and wire colors.Removed wires from prongs, removed the two screws, replaced old switch with new one .
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- Customer:
- Trace from Ofallon, MO
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven was not correctly heating to set temperature
Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.
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- Customer:
- Eugene from Pampa, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP7403P899-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
oven wouldn't heat and showed a error message of function not available
pull oven, remove back pannel and unplug and remove high limit switch. Repair was the reverse of removal.
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- Customer:
- Arthur from Cardinal, VA
- Parts Used:
- W11120791
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Front element would not turn on
I removed the 4 screws that held on the front panel as well as the knob of the defective switch. With the panel free, I pulled the wire connections from the rear of the switch with needle-nose pliers. I then removed the 2 screws which secured the switch and removed it. I then reversed the process with the new switch. It could not have been easier.
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- Customer:
- Vernon from Wells, ME
- Parts Used:
- W11120791
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner got excessively hotand couldn't be regulated
The hardest part was breaking the caulk seal between the range and the cabinet. An extra set of hands made the job easier, by holding the panel while I connected the switch. The switch was delivered promptly and I am very happy with Parts Select. I found the other repair stories very helpful.
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- Customer:
- Wayne from Seward, AK
- Parts Used:
- WP71001680
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
oven would not heat to set temp
I rremoved two screws and pulled element out about 3 inches. I un hooked the two wires and tested with an ohnm meter to determine the condition of the element. Element was bad so I ordered a new one. Service and price were great. Easy fix. Thank you.
Don't forget to unplug first.
Don't forget to unplug first.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from LK HAVASU CTY, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WP71001841
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
My daughter tipped a large dish of lasagna onto the oven door and the seal.
The door seal was an exact fit for the factory one. There are little clips that hold the seal to the door. The clips are already installed in the seal. To remove just grasp the seal at each clip and pull up. The seal comes off easily. The ends of the seal are tucked into holes at the bottom of the door so you can just pull them out. For the installation of the new seal grasp the seal at each clip and push them into the littles holes. I used a flat blade screwdriver to tuck the seal ends into the two larger holes at the door bottom. The whole process took about 10 minutes.
I wouldn't have changed the seal but the hot lasagna made the seal sort of hard after it cooled off.
I wouldn't have changed the seal but the hot lasagna made the seal sort of hard after it cooled off.
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- Customer:
- Vincent from Foxboro, MA
- Parts Used:
- WP71002111
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Needed new filter
Replace filter
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- Customer:
- Viraphone from Marlborough, MA
- Parts Used:
- 74009648
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Inner Glass on oven door cracked
The repair for the glass on the inner door of the oven was very straight forward and easy. All I did was remove the door from the oven and then systematically took apart the door. I did not have any schematics, but if you just look at it you can figure out what you need to do. Once apart I had to use pliers to bend the metal that was holding the glass in place and then I simply installed the new one and put everything back together. The whole process took maybe 20-45 minutes from start to finish. Now I can bake a Turkey for Thanksgiving...YEAH!!
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- Customer:
- sherri from elk horn, IA
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
ovens wouldn't maintain temperature after preheat cycle
unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!
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- Customer:
- Roy from Rocklin, CA
- Parts Used:
- 8009, WP71001680
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Bake element wore out. Replaced Bake Element.
Very easy. 1. Turn off power to oven. 2 move the adjustable grills out to gain better access. 3. There are two phillips head screws that hold a bracket to the back of the inside oven. Unscrew both screws. 4 pull the bake element out about 6". This exposes the two electrical connections. 5. Use a plier and wiggle the slide on connector off of the old bake element. 6. With your fingers, slip the old connectors onto the new bake element. 7. Slide the element and wires back in the insulated pocket. 8. Screw both screws back in. 9. Turn on power and make your wife back you chocolate chip cookies just to "test". Sit in an easy chair and enjoy your cookies. If this took longer than 30 minutes inclding baking the cookies, it took you too long. If the cookies are not good, replace the wife. May take a little loger though :)
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- Customer:
- Shirley from Columbus, OH
- Parts Used:
- 12200039
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
toggle switch for fan/light had melted from a hot pan placed on it (presumed)
Installing the new switch was EASY. However, removing the old switch was very difficult due to the nuts holding the switch in place being designed as clamps not threaded screws and nuts.
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- Customer:
- TIMOTHY from LEXINGTON, TN
- Parts Used:
- 12200039
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
fan/light switch plastic bracket broken
First, cut power to the range at the breaker box. I removed the jenn aire vent grill; removed two phillips head screws holding the switch bracket assembly and removed the switch assembly. After making a diagram of wiring, removed 4 bayonet type connectors. Next carefully remove the pushon nuts and save. Remove defective switch and discard. Install new switch on the two metal prongs over the black metal bracket making sure to orient correctly - use wire diagram and compare size of bayonet lugs for proper orientation. Push on nuts. Reconnect four wire bayonets; place switch assembly in proper position. insert and tighten the two phillips head screws that hold the assembly in place; replace vent grill and turn on power at breaker box.
Only problem was that new pushon nuts were too small for the jennaire metal prongs. Good thing i saved the old nuts!!
Only problem was that new pushon nuts were too small for the jennaire metal prongs. Good thing i saved the old nuts!!
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