KFGD500EWH03 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Did the diagnostic tests from the literature provided in a bag on the back of my stove I had no idea it was on the back of my stove because I had this stove installed when it was brand new
The final test indicated the igniter was bad and this is a common cause due to age wear and tear and just use of the oven
So I ordered one. It came extremely fast
It was a an OEM part
I had the oven back in operation in 15 minutes that includes R&R of the stove back and oven racks and inside fire tube covers and fire tube
I then replaced the bad igniter with the new one on the fire tube then reinstalled the fire tube
Then I did the Prefire test with the Gas turned off and the igniter lit beautifully
Then the final test was I turned on the gas and did the Prefire test again AND the fire tube lit up and beautiful blue flames came out the fire tubes tiny holes
Then I finished putting the back and inboard fire tube covers back on
Then I put the racks back in
This is what I did from start to finish and the Most important thing was I made my wife extremely happy

unplugged from electric; turned gas off behind range & removed back panel; removed rack & door (optional) of upper oven; slid & removed drip cover; removed flame guard; carefully unscrewed igniter bracket to keep from dropping fasteners; located and unplugged old igniter from range back; removed old igniter through front of oven, go slow as it gets caught along the way; fed new igniter through same path; reverse steps - plug in new igniter, secure in oven, replace guard & cover & door if removed; back panel installed; gas knob turned to align with gas line; range plugged back into electric wall socket

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

Pulled the old knob off, pushed the new one on.

Used needle nose pliers to remove flat spring steel piece which holds
knob onto spindle. Pushed replacement knob onto spindle - perfect fit.

Simply remove two screws take old one off and line up and put new one on and replace the two screws. Couldn't have been easier.

Just removed the shield (2 wing nuts) than the burner (1 Screw). THe back needs to be removed to unplug the igniter. I than reversed the process until I got to the plug and found that I had 2 male ends. I than had to remove everything and go back to square one until I find the part with the correct end (which should be Female) I'd check this before getting too deep into the repair.

Turned off the gas line & unplugged the oven. Pulled oven away from the wall to access the back of the oven. Removed the back panel (screws) on the oven & the few inner oven parts covering the broken igniter. Sprayed WD 40 on the threads of screws holding the old igniter in place. Removed old igniter screws with a nutdriver & unplugged it from the back of the oven. Installed the PartSelect replacement igniter & plugged it into the wiring receptacle. Reassembled the parts covering the new igniter & screwed the back panel back onto the oven. Plugged oven in, turned the gas back on & pushed the oven back into place. Tested the new igniter. Woohoo, oven works again & wife if happy!

Easy instal most of time was taking off and replacing back panel Found watching how to videos helpful

Removed door, oven racks, and cover at the bottom. Very easy to get to the actual ignitor. The more challenging part is getting to the back of the oven where the igniter plugs in. Once we got the oven pulled out enough to access the bottom of the back panel, we removed the back panel....just a couple screws and it slides up. Unclipping and removing the old igniter was easy. It's a bit of a challenge to feed the new igniter's wires under the insulation and up over a small ledge and out a small hole that's smaller than a quarter. Small hands help. You can avoid the whole part of attaching it in the back of you clip the wires of your old igniter and new one. Then use ceramic wire nuts to connect the new igniter the the old one's wires. We decided not to do that since it was already done once that way and figured it would be good to have fresh wires clipped in at the back. Overall, fairly easy repair especially if you decide to connect the igniter with ceramic wire nuts.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

I repair it by shutting off the gas. removing the back panel of the stove . unplug the electrical sensor cord to the igniter. Then replace with new one.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Unplug range

Shut off gas supply

Remove rear panel screws and panel with nut driver

Disconnect power plug from broiler element igniter

Open upper oven door

Remove screw from the front of the gas burner.

Remove screw using nut driver from rear of gas burner

Remove gas burner from oven and pull cord through from rear panel

Using nut driver, remove igniter from mount on gas burner

Install new igniter on mount on gas burner using nut driver

Reinstall is reverse of disassembly

Connect power and turn gas back on. Test igniter by activating broil on upper oven