KESC300BAL6 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Removed rear panel (6 screws) and disconnected the four connectors on the Broil element. Then removed the 4 screws holding the the element to the top of the oven cavity. Inserted new element and connected the 4 screws to secure it. Connected the four connectors and re-installed the rear panel.

removed the screws that secured the lower element. Disconnected the old element from wire contacts. Inserted the new element into the wire contacts.

I searched Whirlpool, Sears and random appliance stores and Part Select was the only company to have the lens available. All other manufacturers said the lens was no longer manufactured as a stand alone piece and I would have to buy the entire light assembly. Thank you Parts Select!!!!!

Remove three Phillips screws underneath front edge, raise front edge and lay it back on stovetop. Pull knob straight off, use pliers to loosen nut holding switch in place, remove nut. I took photos of the old switch with wires attached that also showed the numbers on the terminals in case I pulled off too many at once. The new switch isn't arranged the same as the old one, but follow the conversion table, and it will work fine. Remove and replace one wire at a time. When replacing the control panel don't try to just lay it flat and slide it back on -- it won't work. Easier if you hold it at about 90 degrees and pivot it back onto the rubber seal at the edge of the stovetop. Re-install the three screws, and you're done. The new switch fixed the problem perfectly. I took apart the old switch and found a broken metal piece inside, so I was confident this was the problem, and not some other component.

Unscrew 3 screws across the front inside the oven door and the 2 screws on each side of the control panel. That allows for lifting the entire control panel from the front to access the switches from underneath. The old switch is held in place by the lug nut under the knob. Once removed, the 5 wires can be disconnected (carefully noting which wire connects to which terminal). The new switch is then connected, and then fastened back into place with the lug nut. The control panel is then re-secured by the five screws

Remove two screws. Plug n play.

The part came in 2 days even though I chose the least expensive shipping method. The hardest part was unscrewing the old screws that held the old bake element in place. We soaked them in WD40, and after a while were able to unscrew them. The new element slid in place and works just fine.

I very simply replaced the gasket where it belonged and I was good to go!

Turned breaker off. Removed oven door for access, two screws loosened element, unplugged wires from element & removed element. Reverse order to install. Perfect fit. Thanks.

TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE RANGE, DISCONNECTED THE ELECTRIC PLUG. I unscrewed the element attached to the oven, disconnected the connectors. Reconnected the element and screwed the part back to the oven. EASIER THEN I THROUGHT.

The oven light gasket had deteriorated with time and bulb changes. It is a self cleaning oven, which gets very hot during the cleaning cycle. The oven is old (27years) and off the "books" I selected a similar, but slightly smaller gasket (3" OD), and "fit" it to the 3.5" light fixture of the older oven. The gasket material was similar to the original, and I used a usable portion of the original,along with the new gasket to build a gasket for the light lense. Several years prior to this repair, I replaced the oven door springs. Whirlpool, who had taken over what was left of Chambers, had the springs. I did replace one heating element about 15 years ago. The Chamber's salesman told me that the Chambers was the "Cadillac" of all ovens, and it seems to keep running.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

The burner infinte control switch was the same as the old one - just placed the wires in the same location - fixed the LED being on permanently. The dual serface element switch was a newer version. The difficultly i had was the connection labeling on the old switch. I was confusing the numbers with the wrong connections because the old switch had numbers where there were no connections, but I thought they went with two of my wires. I finally realized the wires went with the numbers on each side of the neutral. Ignore the numbers on each side, in the middle of the sides. Sorry, forgot the numbers and the switch is long gone in the trash.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

I removed the door and I took it completely apart in order to replace the broken inner glass pieces. The door has about 30 separate pieces, so it is a meticulous repair and I recommend that you be fairly handy if you are going to attempt this. Something that seems as though it should be pretty simple took me nearly two hours to complete. I am happy to report that the result was a resounding success. The broken oven door glass had been affecting the oven temperature and as the result the baked foods were adversely affected. Cakes, pies, etc, would either be over or under cooked with no way to properly regulate the temperature. The inner glass is necessary in order to maintain correct oven function, so replacing it made everything work as designed once again.