KESC300BAL11 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Instructions on line were very helpful. The only problem was getting the screws loose on the clamps that held the glass in. If I was going to redesign this door I would use Hex head screws that can be removed with a nut driver. Most of the time for the job was taken up by cleaning off accumulated grease. You will be surprised how much gunk can get inside the door.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

Replace was not quite like video. I could not remove door so I had to replace glass with door in place. I just kept removing screws until I was able to get to the door. Video helped me know what to expect, double panels, double glass, insulation, rope seal, no caulking. I took pictures with my phone when there was a bracket/spacer that was not obvious on how it went back together. Glass was the perfice size. Thanks partselect!

It was difficult to reach the back of the oven inside to remove screws. I had to use an extended socket with a bit tip. When I tried to remove the element from the clips, the clips slid back inside the insulation at the back of the oven. I had to take the back panel off of the oven, push the clips through the opening and then I used a bag clip to hold them so they would not slide back into the opening. I could not lift the door off-too heavy- to get closer to the back of the oven to put the clips and screws back on so I laid the oven on its back after putting the back cover on. The oven door was so heavy then that I had to prop the oven door open with my 24 inch rolling pin. I then leaned down into the oven and managed to get the clips and the screws back in. I then put the oven upright again, plugged it in, then had to re-level the whole thing. I turned it on and it worked. This probably would have been easier if I were not 65 years old and had some help. I was not giving up though. I got it done.

Turned off electricity at breaker, slid stove out from wall. Disconnected unit. Removed back panel (4screws). Disconnected double broiler wires from the back. Unscrewed element bracket from back wall of oven (2 screws). Removed and replaced element and replaced screws to back wall of oven. Reconnected wires on the back of the oven where element connectors protrude from oven wall. Replaced back panel (4 screws). Removed oven door by pulling forward (no screws involved). Removed screws from bottom of door holding trim on (7 screws). Removed bottom trim and side trim. Removed front glass. Removed inner portion of door (it's just stacked together sandwiching some insulation). Removed track holding 2 glass panels (6 screws and pressure brackets). Removed one screw from corner of track. Removed and replaced inner glass. Lay door flat on floor front down to reassemble. Place glass insulation (looks like rope) around window opening. Lay the track containing he replaced glass down (side with most shallow recess). Replace 6 screws and pressure brackets. Replace large insulation and inner door panel. Reinstall front glass in slots under door handle. Replace oven door back. Reinstall side and bottom trim in reverse order to removal. Replace 7 screws along bottom of door. Reinstall door assembly to oven by sliding tabs back into the range. Done!

The burner infinte control switch was the same as the old one - just placed the wires in the same location - fixed the LED being on permanently. The dual serface element switch was a newer version. The difficultly i had was the connection labeling on the old switch. I was confusing the numbers with the wrong connections because the old switch had numbers where there were no connections, but I thought they went with two of my wires. I finally realized the wires went with the numbers on each side of the neutral. Ignore the numbers on each side, in the middle of the sides. Sorry, forgot the numbers and the switch is long gone in the trash.

That should have been an easy repair according to previous responders that replaced this part.

The first issue is the Phillips head screw that fastens the sensor to the back of the oven was frozen and I had to drill it out.

The second issue was I could not pull the connector through the hole where the sensor wires pass. I decided to cut the sensor wires and use wire connectors to attach the sensor as instructed in the sheet provided with the sensor.

NOTE: You MUST use third party "gray" colored wire connectors that you can purchase in a hardware store. - the connectors provided DO NOT have a metal insert and even after several attempts would not grab the wires.

Another caution is you should use a self-tapping sheet metal screw to fasten the sensor to the oven wall if you encounter the same frozen screw that I did!

After I installed the sensor I tested the oven but found that this DID NOT solve the problem! I needed to order the "hidden" bake element that is mounted under the bottom oven wall and also the broil/bake element that is mounted inside of the oven on the top. See my comments for the Bake Element (bottom)

Had difficulty removing the two screws holding element(range is eighteen years old.Screws were badly rusted)After that,it was a piece of cake