KERC607GWH1 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

The new switch pin configuration differed from the old switch but the instructions were clear on the conversion. Would have gone quicker but I reviewed about 10 times before turning on the power just to be safe.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

The burner infinte control switch was the same as the old one - just placed the wires in the same location - fixed the LED being on permanently. The dual serface element switch was a newer version. The difficultly i had was the connection labeling on the old switch. I was confusing the numbers with the wrong connections because the old switch had numbers where there were no connections, but I thought they went with two of my wires. I finally realized the wires went with the numbers on each side of the neutral. Ignore the numbers on each side, in the middle of the sides. Sorry, forgot the numbers and the switch is long gone in the trash.

That should have been an easy repair according to previous responders that replaced this part.

The first issue is the Phillips head screw that fastens the sensor to the back of the oven was frozen and I had to drill it out.

The second issue was I could not pull the connector through the hole where the sensor wires pass. I decided to cut the sensor wires and use wire connectors to attach the sensor as instructed in the sheet provided with the sensor.

NOTE: You MUST use third party "gray" colored wire connectors that you can purchase in a hardware store. - the connectors provided DO NOT have a metal insert and even after several attempts would not grab the wires.

Another caution is you should use a self-tapping sheet metal screw to fasten the sensor to the oven wall if you encounter the same frozen screw that I did!

After I installed the sensor I tested the oven but found that this DID NOT solve the problem! I needed to order the "hidden" bake element that is mounted under the bottom oven wall and also the broil/bake element that is mounted inside of the oven on the top. See my comments for the Bake Element (bottom)

Per the instructions listed in your customer replies

Had difficulty removing the two screws holding element(range is eighteen years old.Screws were badly rusted)After that,it was a piece of cake

I followed the instructions submitted by other users which were helpful. Two notes that might help someone. 1. To loosen the screws holding the inner door glass, use channel lock type pliers to slightly twist the square bracket the screw is holding. The screw comes out easily then. 2. Note that the flange on the side rails go UNDER the glass door front. I spent quite a bit of time trying to get screw holes lined up with the flanges on top - DUH!

Followed included instructions transfered wires from old dual burner switch to new dual burner switch per the instuctions the new switch did not look exactly like the original switch but the instructions tell you how to wire it up. It works fine now,

I was not around the entire time a neighbor was working to get the door removed. He only said he had to remove an additional screw so I'm not sure I can be of much help here.Once the door was removed however, the repair went easily. I would tell anyone needing this repair to be prepared to clean a number of crevices around the door. I was glad to have a chance to clean these hidden places.Let me also said customer service rep was wonderful.

Took door apart no problem had a little trouble putting it back together just one piece I put back wrong had to start over not to bad still took less then one hour

One screw on each of the two cover plates removed, then element is pulled out enough to get at the connections. These are small blade connectors that slide off, two on each side, so 4 all together. The problem for me was that on one side the wires were to short and as soon as the blade connection was released the wire pulled back through the hole and was difficult to retrieve because it was hiding in the insulation. If I were to do this again I would use a small zip tie around the wire before disconnecting it so I would have something to pull it back out with.

The repair was simple:
PartSelect always seems to have the parts you need and they get them to you quickly.
Baking element - I removed the two screws that hold the element to the back of the oven ( Philips head). Disconnected the spade type electrical connections from each end of the element. Note: use some type of clamp to hold the wires from pulling back into the outer section of the oven. I used wooden clothespins). Reverse the process to install new element.
Broiler element - I placed the shipping container over the new baking element to protect it. Then removed the four screws holding the top element to the back of the oven ( Philips head). Take care to mark the 4 wires for the broiler element. ( 2 for outer coil & 2 for inner coil) Clamp these wires also after disconnecting. Slide the 2 "L" shaped hangers out of there slots. When installing the new element connect the wires first then slide the "L" shaped hangers back into the slots. reinstall the 4 screws and your done. I did the repair with out removing the oven door ( ours is difficult to get back on ) with the door off the job will take less time and access will be easier.

Most of the basics have been covered in previous post. I can add this- those who claim 15 minute-fixes are delusional, unless they're appliance repairmen. Secondly- what will take time is the cleaning. If you have to do this repair, which requires extensive disassembly of the door, it would be foolish not to take advantage of the opportunity to thoroughly clean all four layers of glass. Take the glass panes outside and use oven cleaner. This takes time. Other than that, the pancakeing of the components on re-assembly is tricky, but you can do it. Don

It was difficult to reach the back of the oven inside to remove screws. I had to use an extended socket with a bit tip. When I tried to remove the element from the clips, the clips slid back inside the insulation at the back of the oven. I had to take the back panel off of the oven, push the clips through the opening and then I used a bag clip to hold them so they would not slide back into the opening. I could not lift the door off-too heavy- to get closer to the back of the oven to put the clips and screws back on so I laid the oven on its back after putting the back cover on. The oven door was so heavy then that I had to prop the oven door open with my 24 inch rolling pin. I then leaned down into the oven and managed to get the clips and the screws back in. I then put the oven upright again, plugged it in, then had to re-level the whole thing. I turned it on and it worked. This probably would have been easier if I were not 65 years old and had some help. I was not giving up though. I got it done.

ordered replacement glass. removed oven door. dismantled parts, replaced glass and reassembled door and reattached to oven.