KESC300BAL5 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Unscrew 3 screws across the front inside the oven door and the 2 screws on each side of the control panel. That allows for lifting the entire control panel from the front to access the switches from underneath. The old switch is held in place by the lug nut under the knob. Once removed, the 5 wires can be disconnected (carefully noting which wire connects to which terminal). The new switch is then connected, and then fastened back into place with the lug nut. The control panel is then re-secured by the five screws

Replaced both rollers....Quick and Easy!!

Removed the light cover - unscrew the bulb - place the gasket on the base of the light cover - replace the bulb - replace the light cover

I searched Whirlpool, Sears and random appliance stores and Part Select was the only company to have the lens available. All other manufacturers said the lens was no longer manufactured as a stand alone piece and I would have to buy the entire light assembly. Thank you Parts Select!!!!!

Removed the element by using a basic screw driver...two screws. Detached the slip on wire attachments (don't know what they are called). Re-attached new element and screws. Very simple. I was hoping elements were a little cheaper, but I was impressed with the speed that Part Select delivered my new element. I'll use them again.

Remove two screws. Plug n play.

removed the screws that secured the lower element. Disconnected the old element from wire contacts. Inserted the new element into the wire contacts.

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.

I very simply replaced the gasket where it belonged and I was good to go!

Turned breaker off. Removed oven door for access, two screws loosened element, unplugged wires from element & removed element. Reverse order to install. Perfect fit. Thanks.

TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE RANGE, DISCONNECTED THE ELECTRIC PLUG. I unscrewed the element attached to the oven, disconnected the connectors. Reconnected the element and screwed the part back to the oven. EASIER THEN I THROUGHT.

The burner infinte control switch was the same as the old one - just placed the wires in the same location - fixed the LED being on permanently. The dual serface element switch was a newer version. The difficultly i had was the connection labeling on the old switch. I was confusing the numbers with the wrong connections because the old switch had numbers where there were no connections, but I thought they went with two of my wires. I finally realized the wires went with the numbers on each side of the neutral. Ignore the numbers on each side, in the middle of the sides. Sorry, forgot the numbers and the switch is long gone in the trash.

The repair was simple:
PartSelect always seems to have the parts you need and they get them to you quickly.
Baking element - I removed the two screws that hold the element to the back of the oven ( Philips head). Disconnected the spade type electrical connections from each end of the element. Note: use some type of clamp to hold the wires from pulling back into the outer section of the oven. I used wooden clothespins). Reverse the process to install new element.
Broiler element - I placed the shipping container over the new baking element to protect it. Then removed the four screws holding the top element to the back of the oven ( Philips head). Take care to mark the 4 wires for the broiler element. ( 2 for outer coil & 2 for inner coil) Clamp these wires also after disconnecting. Slide the 2 "L" shaped hangers out of there slots. When installing the new element connect the wires first then slide the "L" shaped hangers back into the slots. reinstall the 4 screws and your done. I did the repair with out removing the oven door ( ours is difficult to get back on ) with the door off the job will take less time and access will be easier.

The oven light gasket had deteriorated with time and bulb changes. It is a self cleaning oven, which gets very hot during the cleaning cycle. The oven is old (27years) and off the "books" I selected a similar, but slightly smaller gasket (3" OD), and "fit" it to the 3.5" light fixture of the older oven. The gasket material was similar to the original, and I used a usable portion of the original,along with the new gasket to build a gasket for the light lense. Several years prior to this repair, I replaced the oven door springs. Whirlpool, who had taken over what was left of Chambers, had the springs. I did replace one heating element about 15 years ago. The Chamber's salesman told me that the Chambers was the "Cadillac" of all ovens, and it seems to keep running.