KESC300BAL8 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

very easy

My husband took the plastic cover off and took out old bulb and screwed in the new one. Then put the cover back on.

1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

Took out the three screws that holds the front control panel together. Let loose the old switch put the new one in its place, and changed the wires over one by one with old/new switch conversion chart! Piece of Cake, Kinda

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

The burner infinte control switch was the same as the old one - just placed the wires in the same location - fixed the LED being on permanently. The dual serface element switch was a newer version. The difficultly i had was the connection labeling on the old switch. I was confusing the numbers with the wrong connections because the old switch had numbers where there were no connections, but I thought they went with two of my wires. I finally realized the wires went with the numbers on each side of the neutral. Ignore the numbers on each side, in the middle of the sides. Sorry, forgot the numbers and the switch is long gone in the trash.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

removed the screws that secured the lower element. Disconnected the old element from wire contacts. Inserted the new element into the wire contacts.

I got the new wheel and screwed it in by hand. It took like 4 minutes total between taking out the drawer, screwing the new wheel on, and putting the drawer back in

The part came in 2 days even though I chose the least expensive shipping method. The hardest part was unscrewing the old screws that held the old bake element in place. We soaked them in WD40, and after a while were able to unscrew them. The new element slid in place and works just fine.

Removed rear panel (6 screws) and disconnected the four connectors on the Broil element. Then removed the 4 screws holding the the element to the top of the oven cavity. Inserted new element and connected the 4 screws to secure it. Connected the four connectors and re-installed the rear panel.

Removed back panel on stove and found no continuity in bake element indicating a break in the element circuit. Also tested electrical supply up to the element and found that we had electricity up to the element when the oven was turned on. Went on line and ordered the bake element and it was on my doorstep in 48 hours. Remove 2 screws inside oven and disconnect wires from the rear and install new element and plug the 2 wires into it, replace rear panel ( 3screws) and turn electricity back on to the stove and you are back in business.

Remove three Phillips screws underneath front edge, raise front edge and lay it back on stovetop. Pull knob straight off, use pliers to loosen nut holding switch in place, remove nut. I took photos of the old switch with wires attached that also showed the numbers on the terminals in case I pulled off too many at once. The new switch isn't arranged the same as the old one, but follow the conversion table, and it will work fine. Remove and replace one wire at a time. When replacing the control panel don't try to just lay it flat and slide it back on -- it won't work. Easier if you hold it at about 90 degrees and pivot it back onto the rubber seal at the edge of the stovetop. Re-install the three screws, and you're done. The new switch fixed the problem perfectly. I took apart the old switch and found a broken metal piece inside, so I was confident this was the problem, and not some other component.

Unscrew 3 screws across the front inside the oven door and the 2 screws on each side of the control panel. That allows for lifting the entire control panel from the front to access the switches from underneath. The old switch is held in place by the lug nut under the knob. Once removed, the 5 wires can be disconnected (carefully noting which wire connects to which terminal). The new switch is then connected, and then fastened back into place with the lug nut. The control panel is then re-secured by the five screws