KFGD500EWH10 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Removed grills, lower burner cover and burner inlet cover. I then pulled burner out far enough until plug for igniter was exposed. Unclipped wire connection by squeezing in retainer clip and then pulled apart. Pulled burner tube/igniter assembly out and removed two igniter retaining screws. Then reinstalled in reverse order.

The lower oven would not heat up, the temperature stayed at 100. I'm pretty sure the same instructions apply for the upper oven. This is a pretty straightforward repair with a couple of minor bear traps. 1) Remove the oven door by simply lifting it up off the hinges. Not absolutely necessary, but helpful to get your head inside the oven. Not a bad idea to vacuum out the oven floor at this stage. 2) Remove the two Philips head screws at the front of the burner pan cover - the screws are at the very bottom inside the oven. 3) The pan cover lifts straight out of the oven, set it to the side. 4) Remove the burner cover held down by either one or two wing nuts - my oven only had one wing nut from the factory - nice job Maytag on your quality control!! 5) Loosen the screw holding down the burner cover in the far back right corner. This cover is a steel rectangular box that is a shield for the burner gas / air connection. Turn the box around to expose the burner end. 6) Remove the two screws that hold down the burner assembly. One screw is at the very front of the oven. The other screw is on the left side of the burner at the rear. Do NOT remove the pan held down by 6 or more screws. On my oven, the left rear screw was stripped. It stripped in a very weird way that took a long time to remove it. The threads inside the metal were fine, but the threads that had been exposed to heat were brittle and fell off. That meant the screw backed out about 3/4 of the way and then kept turning. This is where pliers come in handy. It will take some pulling up and turning with pliers to get those stripped screws out. I didn't want to cut off the screw because the cut out part would fall back into the lower pan. 7) Pull the oven out from the wall and unplug it from the electicity. Remove the 3 screws holding the left rear metal panel in place. There are two screws along the far left side and one down lower on the right. The panel is connected to the one next to it with tabs. 8) Unplug the ignitor. There is a white fireproof wire that comes up from the bottom of the oven that plugs into a white automotive style clip connector. Push the tab to release the clip and unplug the wire. 9) Wrap some stray wire or string around the plug to use as a pull wire when reassembling the oven. 10) Go back to the front of the oven and lift out the burner, be careful not wo pull your pull wire all the way out of the oven. Untie the pull wire. 11) Remove the two philips head screws that hold the ignitor to the burner bracket. 12) Reassemble! Attach the new ignitor with the two screws. 13) Push the wire into the lower part of the oven. 14) Go to the back of the oven and pull the wire through the oven wall. 15) Drop the burner in, making sure it mates up with the gas tube in the back right. 16) Flip the rectangular burner shield back and tighten it down. 16) Replace the two screws that hold down the burner tube, front and rear. 17) Replace the burner shield with the wing nut(s). 18) Replace the burner cover, or floor of the oven. 19) Go to the back of the oven, plug in the ignitor wire. 20) Replace the rear panel cover and secure it with the three screws. JOB FINISHED! Plug in the stove and push it back. The oven takes a few minutes to start heating, you should be able to see orange glow around the slots in the floor of the oven.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

Removed two screws on sensor in the oven. Pulled out stove and after unplugging same removed the back panel. Sensor has an electric connection on the rear of the oven with a connection that is easily separated. Threaded new sensor electrical connection through inside of oven and connected on the back of stove. Pushed insulation back around the wire were in goes through to the oven. Replaced back on stove and screwed in two screws which hold sensor inside the oven. Replaced back cover on stove, plugged it in and pushed it back in place. Did the trick for me..

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.