KESC300HWH0 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

I received the replacement broil element for my Kitchenaid model KESH307 range 34 hours after placing the order online with PartSelect.com! I had previously removed the old element and verified that the outer circuit was open. I did this without removing the oven door. I realized that to install the new element with the door on would require me to have 5 foot long arms and a very flexible 2 foot long neck.

Turns out there are at least 3 different styles of door mounting in the Kitchenaid line. I found the correct one for my range, and when the new element arrived, I had the door off in a jiffy. Enlisting my spouse to hold the oven door switch so as to keep the light off (It shown in my eyes.), I installed the new element with minimal difficulty. It took me about 20 minutes.

Thank you PartSelect for being there and for the really quick delivery.

I watched the video, purchased the correct heating element and did the repair as illustrated in the video. I simply removed the cook top, removed the ground wire, removed the wiring harness, removed the failed heating element, installed the new heating element and reinstalled the wiring. Piece of cake!

Removed the light cover - unscrew the bulb - place the gasket on the base of the light cover - replace the bulb - replace the light cover

Followed Mfgs instructions.

I got the new wheel and screwed it in by hand. It took like 4 minutes total between taking out the drawer, screwing the new wheel on, and putting the drawer back in

The range top came off with two screws under the front portion of the glass top (by the oven door). I unplugged the connection plugs at the rear off the range top, unscrewed the rear screws holding the heating unit in place and plugged in new element and reassembled range unit. You need to removed the two phillip head screws at the rear of the range top in order to remove the bar holding the heating element. Once you do this it is very easy to finish the job.

pulled door up and out. Disassembled door. removed old glass and rope gasket. installed new glass and gasket.

Removed the element by using a basic screw driver...two screws. Detached the slip on wire attachments (don't know what they are called). Re-attached new element and screws. Very simple. I was hoping elements were a little cheaper, but I was impressed with the speed that Part Select delivered my new element. I'll use them again.

Step 1. Always ensure appliance is unpluged from power source. 2 Remove oven door by open slighly and lift up be sure your hands are up from hinges they can snap back and injure fingers. 3. Have a cover on a flat surface and have a diagram of oven door, 4. Remove bottom screws and slide out top glass and side rails. 5 Remove top cover and insulation over glass. Beware of any jagged glass. 6. Incert new glass. 7. Be sure when replacing insulation and cover that cover in under tabs to ensure glass is firmly held in place repeat steps in reverse order. Took just 20 minutes to repair. I used a small electric screw driver.

I can't believe how easy this was to fix. 1. Unplug the stove. 2. remove the screws that hold the stove top in place. 3. pull the top up, unplug the electrical wires and unscrew the ground wire 4. remove the stove top and flip it over. 4. unscrew braces holding the burners in place. 5. with pliers, remove the wire connections between stove top and old burners 6. replace with new burners. 7. reattach everything. And you're done! Go brag to the neighbors about what you just did.

A breeze. Lifted top, propped it, removed defective element, disconnected wire modules,connected modules to new element, fastened new element, closed top.

I was able to remove the door by opening it partially and lifting it up while jiggling it. Once off, I laid it with the inside up on a table and the screws along the bottom facing outward so I could access them easily. I removed the various screws and porcelain covers and sides feel of easily. The inside panel lifted off exposing the inner glass and frame. The screws and clips had to be sprayed with penetrating oil to remove them. The frame lifted off and the cracked glass was removed. I was careful to wipe away all the fluid used to loosen the frame clips. Assembly was the reverse of this being careful to let pieces fit nicely without force. It would have cost me $39 to have the repair performed assuming I could get the door off. A Phillip's head screwdriver was not adequate to remove the frame clips. You needed a correctly-fitting square drive.

It was very easy. Disconnect the electricity. Take the two screws out that hold the top in place. Raise the top and with the pliers change all the electrical connections and retaining bars. Install the two new burned tops. Lower the top and re-install the two retaining screws.

Removed burned out burner, replaced new burner tested works fine

The repair was very easy. It took me less than ten minutes. There were only five screws including two to hold heat element that I have to unscrew and transferred the old clip the screw onto new heat element.