KESC307HBT3 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

unscrew 3 screws under the control panel and pull that away from the glass top making sure the wires don't come apart from the connectors. care fully slide the glass forward and replace the burner which was the easy part. DO NOT try to test without making sure that none of the burner are touching the metal surface!!!!!!!! it will trip your breaker. But now we have a range with 4 burner after a year THANKS

First of all I couldn't believe parts arrived next day. Parts solved the problem I was reluctant to believe new hinges would solve the problem. I installed the hinges in about 1 hour but I had door apart previously so I knew what I was doing. Now my wife is speaking to me again and she threw the wooden spoon away that she used to hold door closed. Just spent $100 dollars and saved $1600 thanks guys.

Sensor matched perfect, but had to pull large upper rear panel to find location. From there took a few minutes to reassemble back. Did not un hook gas but turned it off. Obviously unplugged power. Oven works fine.

Took door apart no problem had a little trouble putting it back together just one piece I put back wrong had to start over not to bad still took less then one hour

That should have been an easy repair according to previous responders that replaced this part.

The first issue is the Phillips head screw that fastens the sensor to the back of the oven was frozen and I had to drill it out.

The second issue was I could not pull the connector through the hole where the sensor wires pass. I decided to cut the sensor wires and use wire connectors to attach the sensor as instructed in the sheet provided with the sensor.

NOTE: You MUST use third party "gray" colored wire connectors that you can purchase in a hardware store. - the connectors provided DO NOT have a metal insert and even after several attempts would not grab the wires.

Another caution is you should use a self-tapping sheet metal screw to fasten the sensor to the oven wall if you encounter the same frozen screw that I did!

After I installed the sensor I tested the oven but found that this DID NOT solve the problem! I needed to order the "hidden" bake element that is mounted under the bottom oven wall and also the broil/bake element that is mounted inside of the oven on the top. See my comments for the Bake Element (bottom)

In my situation I thought that I needed an Oven Temperature Sensor so I started by replacing the Oven Temperature Sensor PS388521 -

PLEASE NOTE: You CANNOT reliably do a continuity check on the bake element described here until you have completed te first four steps!!

PLEASE NOTE: Access to the lower bake element is via the RIGHT SIDE PANEL!

To replace the lower heating element (aka the bake or hidden element). These instructions are specific for the KESC307xxxx:

1. Disconnect power to the oven.

2. Move oven from it's location to gain access to the right side panel.

3. Remove the oven drawer (if any).

3. Remove three screws holding the right side panel in place and remove panel. Two of the screws are on the rear of the range. The third is accessed via the cavity where the oven drawer is mounted.

4. CAREFULLY disconnect both wires connected to the element terminals.

5. Remove one screw (not shown) from Shield-HT (item 8 in http://bit.ly/O52AP2) and remove the shield.

6. Carefully pull back fiberglass insulation to reveal cover-access panel.

7. Remove two screws that hold the element to the cover-access panel (item 3 in http://bit.ly/NjvzOi).

8. Remove one screw holding the cover-access panel in place.

9. Remove both element and cover-access panel. NOTE: Observe the orientation of the brackets that support the element so you can install the new element correctly!

10. Installation is the reverse of these steps but make sure you replace the fiberglass insulation correctly or you will experience problems with heat transfer and a possible hot-spot on the side of the oven.

I followed the instructions submitted by other users which were helpful. Two notes that might help someone. 1. To loosen the screws holding the inner door glass, use channel lock type pliers to slightly twist the square bracket the screw is holding. The screw comes out easily then. 2. Note that the flange on the side rails go UNDER the glass door front. I spent quite a bit of time trying to get screw holes lined up with the flanges on top - DUH!

Had difficulty removing the two screws holding element(range is eighteen years old.Screws were badly rusted)After that,it was a piece of cake

Per the instructions listed in your customer replies

I did the repair myself while my husband was at work. I lacked the brute strength to remove the door, so I ended up taking in apart while it was in place. Unfortunately, I only now noticed that instructions for installation were provided on your website. I did it without instruction, just making sure to note where screws had been removed so I'd be able to reassemble the works when I was finished. The worst part was loosening a couple of the innermost screws--even after a long soak in wd40, they were really hard to crack loose. Once I managed that, though, it went smoothly. Don't be intimidated; you can do this stuff yourself without calling--and paying--a repairman.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

Following the various instructions here made this replacement much easier! I was able to do this on my own with just a screwdriver. Pulling the hinges out was fiddly but after removing the screw and small hinge plate from each side a little wobbling and pulling with the door open an inch did the trick. After removing the door I started with the inside glass facing up on a table, and mid-replacement needed to flip the door over. So, recommend that you start with outside of door facing up. As you remove screws keep in mind where they came from so you can replace in reverse order properly. Other than that, everything went swimmingly! Thanks to everyone for their great advice.

One screw on each of the two cover plates removed, then element is pulled out enough to get at the connections. These are small blade connectors that slide off, two on each side, so 4 all together. The problem for me was that on one side the wires were to short and as soon as the blade connection was released the wire pulled back through the hole and was difficult to retrieve because it was hiding in the insulation. If I were to do this again I would use a small zip tie around the wire before disconnecting it so I would have something to pull it back out with.

The new switch pin configuration differed from the old switch but the instructions were clear on the conversion. Would have gone quicker but I reviewed about 10 times before turning on the power just to be safe.

The oven light gasket had deteriorated with time and bulb changes. It is a self cleaning oven, which gets very hot during the cleaning cycle. The oven is old (27years) and off the "books" I selected a similar, but slightly smaller gasket (3" OD), and "fit" it to the 3.5" light fixture of the older oven. The gasket material was similar to the original, and I used a usable portion of the original,along with the new gasket to build a gasket for the light lense. Several years prior to this repair, I replaced the oven door springs. Whirlpool, who had taken over what was left of Chambers, had the springs. I did replace one heating element about 15 years ago. The Chamber's salesman told me that the Chambers was the "Cadillac" of all ovens, and it seems to keep running.