91195859991 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Remove two screws hold cook top down: prop it open with piece of wood. (TURN OFF POWER TO RANGE FIRST!). Carefully make diagram of where wires go: remove and replace.. piece of cake!

Becuase of the fire we had used a chemical based fire extinguisher, which made a real mess in the whole main floor of the house. I removed the oven from the house and used a leaf blower to get rid of all the white chemical powder (like a baking soda of sorts). Once that issue was done, I removed the part in less than 5 minutes. Two screws to remove it and then unpluged the two wire clips from the back of the stove under the shield which also had 6 screws to remove. It took only 3 days to have a new one delivered and I installed it in less than 5 minutes. The oven works fine now. It took much longer to clean the house than fix the oven.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. ordered the part and connected the element back to the two wires replaced the two screws plugged in the stove turned on the oven and we were back in business,

First, pulled out the old heating element and all the peices that were left after it fell apart. Since when you pull out the old one, the wires it connects to tend to recess back into the oven wall, I had to pull out the oven and take the back cover off in order to push the wires and connectors back through the receptacle in the oven. This was really easy as you only have to remove 5 screws from the middle panel on the back of the oven rather than the entire oven back. Once the wires were back through, I just plugged in the new unit. The oven works just like new now. I'm sure I was able to save between $75 to $100 just for the service call by doing this myself.

We ordered the part from PartSelect and received it the next day. Didn't even have to move the range out from the wall. Just unscrewed the two screws on the back wall of the stove that hold the bake element in place with a socket wrench, then pulled the old bake element and wires out about 2-3 inches so we could disconnect the old bake unit. The element was kind of hard to pull out, but after you pull it from the wires, just plug in the new bake unit, push the wires back in and put the screws back in. Oven was up and working again!

removed two screws that hold the element in place and then removed the access rear panel it was much easier to disconnect the element than have to stick my head in the oven to gain access.time :15 minutes.

pulled range out,unplugged it,thenI removed the two screws that hold the element in place.take back cover off, then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.put new element in,put wires and screws back in place,checked to see if worked,did not work,check and reset breaker,it works put cover back on,push range in palce and done.

My friend's husband came over to help. I mentioned that after unscrewing the old bake assembly unit, we would have to capture the wires or they would slip into the back. Before he even had the screws undone, the wires did, indeed, slip into the back. He then removed the back panel and retrieved the wires, pushed them back through the insulation and clipped each of them onto the back assembly. However, the wire clips kept slipping off so he eventually had to criimp the clips to keep them tight on the ends of the bake assembly. That troubled me; what if in the future one of those clips comes loose while the oven is in use? Any suggestions on how to keep these connectors on tightly?

This was a very simple procedure. I removed the 2 screws in the oven itself (holding the element in place), then pushed the element through the back of the oven so the wires were exposed, then slipped off the wires, the male end from the female end, I then removed the entire element. I put the new element in the over, re-attached the wires, put the screws back in place, replaced the cover, and the oven was as good as new.

Removed power plug- disconnected wire, removed cover over wires two screws, and removed old heated strip, held in by two screws inside of oven
Slide in new coil installed two screws, connected two wires replaced guard over wires, plugged in stove, cooked a rubarb pie, success

The cooktop is just set in the counter with no fasteners. I shut off the power and lifted the unit out. Ten small screws held the top to the body. After removal, I took a picture to have a wiring reference. I disconnected five wires with push-on terminals, then removed two Tinnerman nuts with needle-nose pliers. The failed burner was free to remove. There were two mounting ears on the bottom of the burner at positions 12 and 48 as stamped on the bottom. I transferred the mounting ears to the new burner, one screw each. I then positioned the new burner and secured with the two Tinnerman nuts, replaced the five wires, screwed the top back on and slipped the unit into the counter. Done.

I didn't know anything about this repair, other than I was replacing a part, so it never occurred to me that I needed to make sure there was no power to the oven. When I pulled the element out, there was a large spark. I flipped the breaker off, then finished the R&R.

Make sure you turn power off at the breaker, then replace the element.

Tim

On the website, the heating element looked exactly the same with same measurements as the old one. However, the part I received did not match. The screw holes where the element attaches to the back were wider apart and higher. Plus, the leads curved up instead of being straight.

very easy and clean.

Ordered the part, it arrived and 5 minutes later it a complete installation