36275797000 Kenmore Range - Instructions

When turning on the oven, I could see the ignitor red hot but it would not ignite the burner. I ordered the pair of new ignitor and burner tube. Upon removal of the burner tube, I saw a large hole in the tube where the center of the ignitor is located, clearly in need of replacement. Unlike some other ovens, the connector on the new ignitor was the exact fit for my oven (Hotpoint RGB745BEA7WH). After access to the tube, the replacement took less than 10 minutes not including watching about 3 youtube videos on how to actually do the replacement prior. You should turn the gas and electric off but ooops, I forgot. I was shocked at how easy this was!

Turned off the gas. Disconnected gas inlet, burner supply line and oven supply line from regulator. Unscrewed regulator from its bracket. Replaced with new regulator in reverse order and added teflon tape suitable for gas lines to all threads.

Unfortunately, the regulator was not the cause of the problem and the oven still does not prehead - acts exactly the same.

My son took out the old burner bar and there was a hole burnt right through it. I ordered the part on Weds night and was surprised when we received it so quickly on Fri morning. He had no trouble at all - just removed the old igniter and bar and replaced it with the new one. Nothing needed cut or spliced - perfect match. Now I can bake again!!!

Removed the old glowbar's two screws. Didn't take a mental photo of its proper placcement (or a real one, which would've been smart). Removed screws holding 1) a heat protection plate, and 2) wire harness plate. Installed the new glowbar, hopefully, the right way - with its heat-plate facing the gasline of the over/broiler. Reinstalled the heat protection plate and wire harness plate. Hasn't blown up yet!

1. Removed oven door..
2. Slide out floor plate of over.
3. Removed four screws securing the flame shield.
4. removed the two screws attaching the heating element to the burner.
5. Pulled heating element wires out of rear hole in oven and detached plug.
6. Attached new element and reassembled in reverse order.

In my case it was the lower burner so I unplugged oven and turned gas off.
Then I removed the bottom drawer, and the lower burner cover.
Next unplug Oven Igniter, found where drawer existed.
Removed 2 screws attaching Igniter using nutdriver
Placed new Igniter on
Plug Igniter in and tested oven
Replace burner cover and drawer


This was much easier then what I went through with a repair man the first time around. These Igniter are designed for certain model stoves and are not interchangable with other model stoves!!!

I first took out the screw which held the bottom plate for the oven. then took the screws off the igniter unhooked the wires , took the new igniter hooked up the wires then put the screws back in put the bottom plate back in and turned the oven on to test it and it worked great.

PLEASE BE ADVISED WHEN THEY SHIPPED THE BACK ORDER 1 -(taupe) LARGE CAP - RECEIVED 4 BLACK CAPS - 1-SMALL
2-MEDIUM 1-LARGE (ALL BLACK) - STILL LOOKING FOR
A LARGE CAP IN taupe color!

Received refund for 1-large cap
PROBLEM IS ALL OTHER PARTS ON THE GAS STOVE
ARE taupe in color - do not want black!

your advice?

Caps were shipping very quickly. Price was very reasonable. Very happy with parts-selects service.

Very was ti replace racks and knobs. Very fast mail service

I merely replaced the old caps with the new ones. It couldn't have been easier!

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

In general, other repair stories on this site collectively give a good description of the repair process. My words concern the decision that has to be made as to which element is bad - igniter or gas valve. To reach a conclusion about this question, I was comforted by the fact that I could measure the AC electric current through the gas valve which then let me decide that my problem was in the igniter. Since the circuit is a simple series with three elements, thermostat, igniter, and valve and the resistance of the valve unit was 1.0 to 1.2 ohms (per GE range equipment instruction which came with the range) by measuring the AC volts across the valve, I found (by dividing the volts AC across the gas valve (2.3 volts) by the resistance of the valve mechanism (1.0 ohms) that my old igniter was only supplying 2.3 AC amperes (instruction sheet states 2.9 amps. is needed to actuate the valve and further while heating of the oven is occurring the valve AC current will raise to 3.2 to 3.6 amps.). At 2.3 amps. the igniter will glow at a yellow color but will not actuate the valve. When you replace the old igniter with a new one you will enjoy to measure voltage across the gas valve once again and discover that the voltage rises to 2.9 volts and that the gas turns on and the heater tube gas is ignited.

Replaced the flat style oven igniter. First, I watched the video on your web site, and used it as a reference to make the repair. I did remove the oven door tho, as it made it easier to complete the work, the video didn't show the door being removed. The video was very helpful.

I let my brother do the actual installation but it only look about 15 min. I did look at the website of the appliance manufacturer first and then came to this website. The cost of the part I needed was almost half as much as the other site. When I saw that someone with the same oven model number and had the same problem and was able to fix it, I decided to order here. It came quickly and my oven now works.