62946975 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Make sure you turn breaker off install both wires and screw the bracket into the back of the oven. You could use a phillips screw driver but with my ovens age seemed like it wanted to strip it out so I used a socket instead. Turn on the breaker and it works like new

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike

Opened oven door, took four screws out of the front control panel, removed the two screws holding the burner control switch to the front panel, removed the wires from the old switch one at a time and installed them on the new switch. secured the new switch to the front panel, put the four screws back into the front panel, and closed the oven door. Real easy repair.

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

I contacted a local appliance repair store who didn't know what I was talking about. I looked online and the store called me back to tell me the part would probably be $75.00. I took the broken part out of the door frame and found the exact part online at your site, and ordered it for $14.00. Received the part within 2 days and put it in in 10 minutes.

Remove Vent Cover, Remove Old Filter, Replace With New Filter, Replace Vent Cover, Repair Complete

Removed two nut screws (accessed with oven door open) with nutdriver, panel dropped out. Transferred wiring one-by-one to new switch, removed old switch with allen wrench, installed new switch, replaced panel. Done! However, the problem is not corrected and all other possibilities have been explored with no solution in site. Ideas needed.

lift out old filter, wash, put in new filter.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

My son put in the new part and turned on the oven. The broiler heated, but not the bake element. He switched the wires to find out if the bake element would work. It heated, but not the broiler. That told him the control board was a problem. He took it off and could see that one of the solder points had burned off in the explosion. He cleaned the board and put on a new dot of solder. He put it all together and it worked perfectly.

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

This slide out range requires that you remove two screws that hold the element into the back of the oven, slide the range out, remove a metal cover, and then disconnect the two spade connectors from the element. Reverse is the opposite. I could not find the element anywhere locally. I live in a rural area of the Smokey Mountains. Thanks to PartSelect, I was up and running in only four days.