66578002801 Kenmore Range - Instructions

1. Opened oven door and removed bottom covers plates to expose igniter and removed it. 2. Located hole in oven rear where the igniter connector and leads went through. 3. Pulled oven forward to allow access to rear bottom left cover plate where leads came through and removed plate to obtain access. 4. Installed replacement igniter in place of old iginter and ran its leads and connector through the oven hole. 5. Since the new igniter connector was unlike the old one, I had to replace the new igniter connector with the old one. Allowing sufficient lengths to properly make splices, I cut the igniter connectors off so that I could eventually match the mating connecter to the oven control circuit. I used a wire striper and pliers to make good splices. I covered the splices with plastic wire nuts normally used for insulating splices. I left the splices and the igniter connector outside the oven back for protection from the heat inside the oven. 6. After ensuring that oven insulation material was positioned to essentially cover the hole where the connector wires go through, I replaced the cover plate at rear of the oven and the cover plates inside the oven. 7. I checked oven for proper operation and found it now to be OK. Range was returned to normal position..problem corrected.

I tried to take it out from the inside as the vidio shows. But it would not come out far enough. I pulled out the stove and removed back sheet metal panel. Unpluged the electric, Unhooked the temp sensor,pulled it out from the oven side. Put the new one through the hole,and rehooked it up. And got to clean up the dust and my missing oatmeal I spilled a while back. Turned it on. Checked it with a spare temp gage. Works so far.

Removed stove from slot in wall. Bent rear left leg would not unscrew due to bent metal bracket. Used hacksaw to cut out leg, then straightened metal bracket with small hammer and was able to screw new leg in and adjust height by using level on stove before reinserting stove its slot. Recheck level after pushing back in place and adjust front legs if necessary. If not for bent metal receiving bracket, would have taken much less time. Still easy tho. R'cvd part in two days. Very quick.

I had to use a dremel to grind the heads off the rusted in screws that hold the burners to the stove top then drill out the screws and use larger sheet metal screws to reassemble. Don't lift the stove top much with the burners attached or you'll bend the gas lines. Two screws inside the top oven hold the top down. Without the rusted screws it would be an easy job.

My first suggestion, after turning off the power to the unit, is to take the oven door off. Two simple screws and it's off! It makes getting to the temperature sensor much easier. I also moved the oven out so I could get access to the back to remove the rear panel. The ordered part came with two pigtails, neither of which fit my oven wiring harness. I cut one of them and the wiring from the faulty sensor, spliced them together with wire nuts and made my own connection harness. The new sensor went in with little effort. The wiring went together flawlessly with the spliced connection protected between the oven cavity and rear panel. Reattached the rear panel and the oven door, then slid the oven back into place. Turned on the electricity and back to normal! Problem resolved!!

After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.

I removed the sensor from the oven using a philip screw driver. The sensor was removed by removing the two screws holding it in place in the upper left hand corner of the oven. I had to disconnect the sensor on the back of stove. Then I pulled the old sensor through the hole inside the oven. Then I installed the new sensor by putting the wire of the sensor through the hole where the old sensor was removed. Then I hooked up the wire in the back of the stove. Then took the screw driver and replaced the two screws holding the sensor in place. It was very easy to do and the oven is doing fine now.

Undid screws on front and some on the back and replaced part and put screws back on and it fixed the proble

I had to pull the range out from the wall and loosen the rear cover to free the connector for the sensor as it got stuck on a corner guide. Put the new sensor in, rear cover back on, range back in place and tested the oven. Oven heats fast now and keeps a more even temp. Makes me wonder how long I was trying to cook with a bad sensor.

I lifted the burner tray from stove turned it upside down then removed six small screws from side of cover pan then I removed the cover then I removed the screws from the back of the old burners and igniter.Then I turned the old burner counter clockwise and it lifted out easly. the igniter is removed with no problem. The new burner is put in place and turned clockwise to lock in place.Then replace then the gas tubes and igniter and igniter wire then put tray cover on.

First, I called Sears who wanted $440.00 to send a tech out to repair the stove. Second, I visited various web sites to find out what the problem was. I watched a brief video on Part Select which showed the repair of the stove. I then checked other parts stores on the web and selected Part Select based on price and video. Installation was very easy just as the video showed. Stove was repaired in less than 30 minutes.

Followed instructions I found online at the Maytag site.

Ordered the oven sensor. Two screws to remove to replace old sensor. Since this was a slide in unit, you had direct access to the wiring harness. Used the adaptor. Total repair time about 20 minutes. A very easy do-it-yourself project.

Slide oven door off hinges. Remove old gasket. Instal new gasket. Used eraser end of pencil to help feed in ends of gasket into respective holes for excess. Note: job could have been accomplished without taking off door but I wanted to take door appart to clean inside and out of glass.

It was necessary to take the decorative glass and metal safety panel off using a screwdriver in order to get to the frame that holds the safety glass. It was hard to slide the new glass into the frame without help from a second person to hold the other pane in place.This was an easy repair to make I would just suggest having 2 people to hole things in place while replacing screws.