79090812406 Kenmore Range - Instructions

It went very well. Very quick. Just took out a couple of screws, took out the rest of the broken glass, slipped the new piece in and screwed it all back together. This was the first time I had ever tried to fix any part of a range/oven before, it was very simple...

The elements tested good. Figured it was the electronic clock timer/control using the sites repair guidance and ordered the part. The remove and replace was very easy. Pulled the stove out, removed back panel and removal and replacement of the part is pretty basic. Be sure and unplug the appliance first. Everything works fine now.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

Watch video. This oven had the connecters that popped off and on which made this task easy.

Disconnect power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box. Remove 240 volt service electrical plug to range. Remove back top panel to expose element control switches. Remove element control switch to L.F. burner by first pulling off the control knob. You may need to use a large flat screw driver to pry behind knob to get it started but it should come straight off. There are two screws revealed under knob that need to come off. Then the element control is easily, but carefully, removed out the back. Be careful you do not pull the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch off right above the element control switch. If you do, this will break the end off the plastic "Hot Surface Indicator Light" lens. If this happens you can still replace it but you will need to use super glue to make the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch stay connected to the clear lens. Install new element control in reverse order before gluing the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch as stated above or you will knock it off again. While holding the old element control in your hand with wires still attached, remove one wire at a time (making note of the location code for each wire) from old element control and install on new control. The new element control layout for the wire prongs will be different so you need to make sure you look for the code (like L1, H1, P) located on each prong location and put the same coded wire from old element control location onto new control prong code location. Reinstall new element control (with wires pushed fully onto prongs of new control) into panel with screws removed before. Reinstall knob, reinstall panel cover and reconnect range power plug. Restore power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box With electric power restored, test element control by turning it on and see if it properly cycles on and off at different settings. If working properly you should be able to hear it click on and off and element heating and going off accordingly.

i used a screwdriver to remove the old drip pans and broken surface element in addition to prepping the bracket for the door. It was extremely difficult for me to find these parts for the frigidaire oven but these fit perfectly! I was extremely pleased with how quick it was to replace or fix everything. I will definitely order again when the other surface elements go!

It was a replace racks not repair. No problem

snapped the new piece of plastic in its place and ta da, its fixed.

The replacement racks were spot on and the service was outstanding. had the racks in 2 days. Happy Happy Joy Joy! :)

Removed four srews from bak of the oven so I could get to the timer. Then I unplugged the oven swapped out the wires put everything back together. Plug it back in and started the oven. Work great. Also you must remove the timer faceplate carefully or you will peel off the white.

Removed heating elements and replaced drip pans. And by the way, this is the only 'pans' I could find to fit. Thanks.

After receiving the parts in only two days, I first turned off the circuit breaker. Then I pulled the stove out from the wall. I used the nutdriver to remove the upper rear panel. Using the screw driver I removed the defective clock timer and used a pocket knife to carefully remove the clock timer face. I positioned the clock timer face on the new clock timer and installed same in the stove panel. (I had made a list of the wires and their colors to insure the proper placement on the new clock timer). Installed the four screws and on to the burner switch. Two front panel screws removed and the defective burner switch was out. Installed the new burner switch, connected the wires, installed the two screws, pushed on the knob and I was ready to go. Re-installed the reap panel, pushed stove back in, turned on the circuit breaker and tested the burner and oven. All worked correctly. A very easy repair!

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

Removed the backing, removed the old part and disconnected the wires (after taking a quick photo so we knew where to reconnect them on the new part). Removed clock/timer facing and placed on new part. Reconnected the wires to the new part and screwed it back in. Oven now works great without spending the $300 we were quoted by the repair man!!

Took the drawer out, snapped the new glide in place, and replaced the drawer. Installation was simple with no tools required.