7909422240D Kenmore Range - Instructions

1. Order part
2. Remove 2 top screws holding vent cover and carefully remove
cover
3. Open door all the way and lift, door will come of the microwave
4. Set door on a flat surface facing down
5. You will need a flat screwdriver,carefully set the screwdriver
between the door and the black plastic and pry out completely
6. Remove screws holding handle. (This will be a good time to clean
the inside of this door)
7. Attach new handle tighten screws
8. Put black plastic back in door and press on all around make sure
that is set in place
9. Re-install door and vent.

First I unplugged the element that wasn't working and switched it with one that was to confirm that it was the burner element, and not the cooktop wiring, that was the problem. Once that was confirmed, I ordered a new element from partselect.com. Upon arrival of the new element several days later, I plugged it into the empty plug on the cooktop and voila, we're cooking on all 4 again.

replaced it

Called fridgidaire and they told me the a F31 code means my temperature sensor is not working.
So I ordered one online. I installed it and I still have F31 code and still won't work. So what now? Do I trust them to tell me another part?

I just plugged it into the receptacle on the stovetop and turned the thing on, and it worked! I'd been without the 4th burner for quite some time. Nice to have it back!

Really a no brainer, but I do have to say that PartSelect customer service is excellent. My part was located and on it's way within a day and arrived a couple of days later.

I followed two very good videos on how to do the repairs. It took longer to clean all the disassembled parts and the glass than it did to actually do the repair.
A word of caution: Be sure to lock the door hinges in the open position before you lift out the door. They must be locked open to put the door back on. It's difficult to lock them open once the door is removed. Also when you replace the screws get them all aligned in the holes before you lock everything down.
The infinite burner switch was pretty easy to replace but watch out for sheet metal cuts when you are removing the back of the stove. I recommend gloves. My stove has a 12 inch infinite burner, but the parts list only mentions a 10 inch burner. Before I ordered it, I had to call the company to verify that it could be used for the 12 inch burner as well.

I actually watched Youtube while I was changing it. This video was not actually the same make up of my oven, even though the I typed in the model number. I manage to figure it any with the steps anyway. It was harder then I expected but not horrible. I think I did pretty well for a women. Patti

Easy as 1-2-3

Ensured breaker was off. My range is hot wired. Removed all cables from old terminal block with nutdriver. Used phillips head screw driver to remove old terminal block from back of range. replaced old terminal block with new one. Re-attached accessory cables to small terminals first, then the main cables to the terminal block using where necessary long nose pliers. It is important to make note of which cables are attached to each terminal of the block, so make a sketch PRIOR to removal. Also be careful how the cables are attached to the block. You are using 10 gauge cable with thick insulation. It is important that when pushing the range back into position the cable does not put too much pressure on the block as it will break it. That's exactly what happened to this last one. It probably cracked under the strain of the pressure of the cable and finally current running through it weakened it to the point where it broke off from the block causing it to short and trip the breaker.

A Phillips screwdriver and pliers were all the tools required. At first glance, the physical appearances of the OEM and the replacement were not identical. The slide-on electrical tabs were numbered on each in the same way. Sliding off the connectors and re=connecting them on the same number tab on the new switch was all there was to it.

Replaced the control I got from you , even though it was a little different the lugs matched up and works great.

open door,throw the door latches at the hinges and remove door. Take the out of the outer panel so you can separate the glasses. remove clip that hold the outer glass in place. I ordered a replacement glass as I never thought that it would come clean it looked so bad, but it cleaned up like new so I now have a spare glass for my oven door. Just reverse the way you take it apart to put it back together.

Unscrewed the old element (2) screws, then unscrewed the (2) brackets holding the element up, pulled the element out of the back wall of the oven unhooked the (2) electrical wires and left them hanging. Installation is in the exact reverse order.

Took door apart, went online to partselect, ordered new glass, and put it back together. Oven looks like new. Makes sense to order the isolation as well when you do the repair