7909422240D Kenmore Range - Instructions

New ones fit perfectly. Take a minute to bend the frame straight. Then and I used oversize screws on the replacement parts as the drop had stripped out the screw holes of the frame.

Unplugged range; removed back cover; removed old oven probe. Installed new probe; replaced cover; connected power and turned on range - that simple. My only issue was probe was shipped in bubble rap and unit was slightly damaged (bent). Once straightened, the probe could be installed. Probe should have been shipped in sturdy cardboard cylinder or box. I called customer service, they were very nice, and noted my feedback on my account in case the unit fails prematurely.

I changed the temperature sensor and tried again. The stove again went on temp runaway and it was suggested to replace control board which is out of stock.
I will have to toss out this stove and buy new as you and no else has this part.

NEED A QUARTER INCH SOCKET FOR THE BOLTS. REMOVE THE BACK PANEL AND THEN YOU WILL SEE THE TWO ELECTRIC WIRES GOING TO THE TERMINALS OF THE ELEMENT. DISCONNECT AND THEN GO TO THE FRONT OF OVEN AND REMOVE THE FOUR BOLTS THAT HOLD IN THE TOP ELEMENT. SIMPLY, VERY SLOWLY PULL THE ELEMENT FORWARD UNTILL IT CLEARS THE BACK AND YOUR GOOD TO GO. DO NOT FORGET TO DISCONNECT THE POWER TO THE OVEN BEFORE YOU START!

I was able to find the most common reason for my oven's symptom by searching online. I searched for the part I needed but was not confident that I would get the correct part until I looked on partselect.com. After verifying the part number with my owners manual and looking at the video on their website, I decided to order. PartSelect shipped the part as expected, and I was able to install it in less than 30 minutes. The only tool needed for installation was a nut driver. My oven is now working like new.

Many thanks to PartSelect for their comprehensive website and fine service.

Pulled oven out, took the screws out of back plate cover plate with socket wrench, pulled connectors out through the back, removed the door, pushed the element rods through the two holes, connected the two wires, screwed the element in, put the hangars on for the element, put the back plate on and turned the broiler on, worked great, put the range door back on and has been working great. Great company, hope not to use them again, but good to know they are there with my part.
Gary H.

first thing was to turn the breakers off. then pull the range away from the wall. used an 1/8 th inch socket to take off the back panel to get access to the switch.used a Phillips screwdriver to disconnect the switch under the knob in the front. took off the wire terminals one at a time and matched it to the numbers on the old switch.replaced the knob, screwed it on to the range. turned the breakers on and tested the switch.worked fine, replaced the back cover and pushed it back into place.

was easy open the back side of the range and change the part, the only issue was the wire I used the diagram

I had to replace the switch on one of the large elements. It could and should have been a quicker repair if there would have been some installation/wiring instructions included with the part. Other than that the repair went well.

I pulled the oven away from the wall, unplugged the cord, removed the back panel then removed the screw from the old sensor.

With the stove pulled out and unplugged, There are 4 square head screws to pull a metal plate off the back of the range. Once that is off, the infinite switches are in line and can be removed with a philips head screw driver/bit. I placed each wire onto the new switch as I removed them from the old, to avoid any confusion. The entire repair took less than 10 minutes. Incredibly easy.

I wanted the bracket for the oven heating element and received the bracket for the broiler.... part returned and now I am stumped about what my next move will be

I watched the video on how to do it

Watched a video - piece of cake!

1 - Turn off the power from the panel. 2 - Unplugged the range from outlet. 3 - Unscrewed the black hex screws from the rear panel. 4 - Took a pic of the bad infinite burner switch to ensure the correct wires would connect to the new switch. 5 - Removed knob and unscrewed switch, then replaced with new switch. Matched all of the wires to like, L1, L2, P, H1 and H2. If any wires do not exist for your switch, it is ok because not all ranges use all wires.