9116047810 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Troubleshooted ALL possible causes and after perusing the owners manual and PartSelect blogs. Can't say it enough, people!! Do your homework- there are 3 possible parts that can cause the oven not to light; Igniter, gas safety valve, or thermostat / power switch assy (oven control knob).
SAFETY FIRST...UNPLUG the stove before performing any of the following electrical circuit checks (besides voltage check, which is ONLY for those qualified for electrical circuit maintenance)

Remove oven door by opening slightly and pulling straight up- it will slide right off the hinges.
Remove the 2 thumb screws holding the lower oven plate and slide it toward the back while lifting up on rear of plate to clear the front flange and then remove the plate.
The burner tube baffle plate will come right off after removing the one retainer screw (1/4" nut driver).
(Optional)Remove the whole broiler drawer by sliding it fully open and lifting it up by the front end.
Now you'll have clear access to the igniter, which is mounted on the rearward end of the burner tube with two 1/4" machine screws. Disconnect the igniter wire connectors at the gas safety valve and wire harness. Remove it and SAVE the screws for mounting the new igniter!! NOTE: .
Handle the new igniter CAREFULLY!! (don't drop it or bang it against anything solid or the heating element will break).

1) Checked t-stat switch on oven knob - good (closed or 0 ohms when turned on). This verifies you are getting supply voltage to the igniter circuit. Lift the oven top by the front corners until the supports lock into place. Locate and disconnect wires on back of switch and measure ohms across switch terminals.
2) Checked voltage at igniter wire terminals with oven knob turned on (this step ONLY for those familiar with proper use of multimeter and training for electrical circuit maintenance). This verifies the gas safety valve switch is closed and correct voltage is available to power the igniter (120V).
3) Since I had proper power to the igniter wire terminals with the oven knob turned on past 200 deg., that verified a malfunctioning igniter.
4) I chose to solder and heat shrink the wire connectors to the new igniter but you can use the supplied ceramic wire nuts. Be sure to leave enough wire length when you cut the wires off the old igniter. Mount the new igniter to the bracket with the screws you saved and be sure to snug them good but DON'T overtighten and strip the threads!! Connect the two igniter wires to the gas safety valve terminal and the harness connector. Make sure the connections are snug!!
5) Reinstall the burner baffle plate and lower oven plate.
6) Remount oven door and turn on oven past 200 deg. The igniter element should glow bright red after a few seconds. Gas valve should open and burner will light a few seconds later.
NOTE: Make sure the gas cock for the oven (on the side of the main gas regulator valve) is flipped to the open position or gas will not flow to the oven burner. The main gas regulator valve is located under the range top toward the rear (trace the gas lines if you can't locate it readily)

Removed bottom drawer removed door and racks and bottom shield.disconected two leads from igniter . then struggled to remove igniter. after ordering part readf comments from other men and the man who said he removed the burner hit it right on the head after the part arrived the very next day after ordering it i removed the burner attached pig tails and had part installed and stove back together in 15 minutes. thanks good experience

Removed the bottom cover plate and the bottom storage drawer. Disconnected the burner and removed it. Replaced the old igniter with the new one. The new one required the wire connectors from the old one to be spliced onto it. Reattached the ignitor to the burner and reinstalled the burner. Tested the new ignitor before reinstalling the cover plate and storage drawer.

Using the crescent wrench, I first removed the bolt holding the cover plate that separates the wiring from the broiler section of the oven.

Then I removed the wire nuts that connected the wires from the igniter to the wires from the oven.

Then I removed the two screws that attached the igniter to the oven.

I then reversed the process, first attaching the igniter to the oven, then connecting the wires from the igniter to those from the oven using the wire nuts. Finally, I replaced the cover plate on the assembly.

The primary difficulty with the process was the small space to work in. One has to reach to the back of the broiler area to remove the bolt, screws and wire nuts. Some of these operations require two hands, and there's no room for both arms in this area.

However, that said, this is the third time we've replaced the igniter. It seems that it only lasts about 4 years before it needs to be replaced. It's not all that hard to do.

Turn off electric supplying appliance,then remove oven bottom plate.Remove ignitor wires from controller and oven control,then remove two screws holding burner ,lift burner from gas valve,remove two screws holding ignitor.Replace with new,and re-assemble.

To diagnos i removed the lower tray and could see the ignitor was not lighting like the broiler was,the same ignitor.I had the same problem as some of the other people so that was helpful.I removed bottom storage tray and could get to the wires and it was an easy fix,took about 40 minutes total.This website was very helpful also with excellent service on the parts and i saved a bunch of money!
Thanks,Gerald

First I got on line to make sure I had the right part. After it was delivered I started the project by unplugging the stove! A magnetic end for your socket device is very helpful.:-)A good alternative light source is esential to see what's going on.There is no need to pull out the stove.I then took off the oven door which is an easy process(Pull up off the hinges). I also removed the oven grates and lifted out the bottom plate which included the heat defuser.I then took out the storage drawer. The next step was to remove the rear screw and front 2 screws holding the burner tube. Then it was just a matter of pulling up on the tube and removing the screws holding the igniter.The 2 wires were then cut and the new igniter wires were spliced in with the new wire nuts that came with the package. I also used a little electrical tape to hold things in place. Then it was just a matter of replacing everything in reverse and plugging the stove back in. Everything works fine.

I removed the bottom cover inside the oven. Beneath that was another cover held by two screws. I removed these and the ignitor was right there. I removed the bracket screws and pulled the ignitor away from the back wall of the oven and cut the two wires close to the ignitor, leaving enough wire to reconnect the wires from the oven outlet to the new ignitor with the supplied wire nuts. Then I re-attached the bracket to the new ignitor and once that was done simply reattached the unit to the back wall of the oven. The whole job is pretty straight forward, the only difficult part being the limited work space INSIDE the oven.

well,as with any repair that looks easy,i had to do a little more than what i had originally anticpated.
i was hoping for an access panel to the igniter,but after removing the lower drawer,there was only the heat shields and pans,about 20 screws later i got
to the igniter and spliced it in place,then reassembled it without too much fuss -now my 93 year old friend can bake her pecan pies for charity that is her favorite hobby-thanks

I first read and printed out several postings on how others did the job. I read and re-read them and then I started. I cut power to stove and left gas on. I removed door, pushed back and removed bottom burner cover. I exposed the igniter which I deduced was the problem. I removed the front burner screw and the rear screws (2) and the burner came out very easy. I removed the igniter from the burner, made sure which wire went where (I marked them)an snipped them. I used the ceramic caps and spliced the wires. I replaced the burner and turned on the power. I turned the oven knob on and "Viola", the igniter came on and burner came to life. I replaced every thing in reverse order and called it "done". It was so easy with the postings on this subject.

1/4 inch nut driver & 9/16 open end to take the igniter off and pull the wires out of the back of the oven. Then take the wire nuts off and install the new igniter . Shove the wire nuts back in the hole. Reinstall the burner and covers. Total time is about a half hour no special skills needed. easy

This site provides excellent instructions and saved a lot of time and effort.

Replacing the part only requires basic skills and attention to detail. The kit I received included ceramic wire nuts to splice the new igniter to the old connections. Be sure to leave enough wire to mke the connections properly.

There are other descriptions here, but here's my story. I pulled the oven door off (pull straight up on it, it will come off) and removed the bottom warming drawer (there are plastic tabs on the outside of each side of the drawer--slide them and pull, several times on each side). I turned off the gas from behind the stove and unplugged the range, undid two screws at the back of the oven floor and lifted it forward and up. The burner is visible, but here is the hard part. The bolts holding the ignitor are underneath it and angled such that it is almost impossible to get any type of tool near them. I have small hands, and that helped. The screws are a bolt-head type or hex head, and I found that a one quarter inch open end wrench sort of fit. 6mm was too small and 7mm was too large. I managed to get the screws loosened after much struggling and manuvering, with half my body inside the oven, and once it was out, I was able to reach in from where the warming drawer was and unscrew the two wire leads attached from the ignitor to the power. They are held by plastic screwcaps. The reverse process was self explanatory, except that you should put the new ignitor in the oven and feed the wires down through the back panel, then attach the screwcaps to join the wires to the leads. Then go back in the oven and attach the ignitor, back screw first, and tighten it all the way, since you may not be able to reach it once the front screw is in. Also, use the screws that come with the new ignitor, since they are easier to start than the old ones. Tighten the screws as tight as you can get them so the ignitor doesn't wiggle, then turn the gas back on and plug it in, and test it before you put it back to gether. Mine worked, but it was a pain to do, kind of like working on an old car that wasn't designed to be fixed easily. Good luck.

Removed the back part of the stove to reveal the wires connected to the igniter. Removed the wire nuts and removed the igniter. Reused the old bracket to mount the new part. Attached the wire nuts and replaced the back parts of the stove. Worked like a charm.

replaced oven igniter - further details superflous as others have acurately documented the fix and procedure - thanks to all of you -