91199009990 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Turn off breaker, disconnect electrical wiring, remove cooktop from courter top, turn over , remove switch.

it went well as compared to getting a new ~~800$ cooktop and ~~150 to install, I took a shot for 30$ bucks and it worked great!! problem solved and great support ! !! thanks for all your help

Not only did we (my wife did help) replace the dual element but afterwards we realized the control switch was not functioning properly and so that was replaced as well, and now our appliance works as intended. Also the instructions, are helpful as well. We used care not to force or over tighten anything and with two sets of eyes and the extra hands everything went much better. Anything that was removed was noted as to it's location and replaced .

ordered over the phone a new temp sensor. Un plug the oven, take off the back, open oven and unscrew the temp sensor, pull the sensor until the elec connector clip comes through so you can unclip the old sensor, clip on the new then pull the line back and re attach the sensor to the ovn. Plug in the oven.
Pretty simple, just hard to work inside the oven. I unclipped the sensor line outside the oven to make sure it would come apart first before I was working inside the oven.

Remove two screws hold cook top down: prop it open with piece of wood. (TURN OFF POWER TO RANGE FIRST!). Carefully make diagram of where wires go: remove and replace.. piece of cake!

1.Move range in position to access electrical wall disconnect and unplug. 2.Remove two 5/16 screws (located under top fwd. edge of cook top, Lift entire top assy up from front and prop with appropriate device(short 2x4 about18 inches long works well) 3.Remove two small phillips screws securing two metallic keeper devices holding burner assy in place. This should allow burner assy to be removed.4.Disconnect electrical spade connectors from ceramic terminal blocks on old burner assy.CAUTION: [SPADE CONNECTORS FIT TIGHTLY DO NOT PULL ON WIRES USE PRYING FORCE WITH FLAT SCREWDRIVER DIRECTLY ON TERMINAL].Remove connectors one at a time re-connecting to same location on new assy. Reassemble in reverse order.

The cooktop is just set in the counter with no fasteners. I shut off the power and lifted the unit out. Ten small screws held the top to the body. After removal, I took a picture to have a wiring reference. I disconnected five wires with push-on terminals, then removed two Tinnerman nuts with needle-nose pliers. The failed burner was free to remove. There were two mounting ears on the bottom of the burner at positions 12 and 48 as stamped on the bottom. I transferred the mounting ears to the new burner, one screw each. I then positioned the new burner and secured with the two Tinnerman nuts, replaced the five wires, screwed the top back on and slipped the unit into the counter. Done.

Ordered the part, it arrived and 5 minutes later it a complete installation

replaced Plastic Guides

Really easy. Part came in rapid time and was the right part. Went on web and got instructions with video how to install.

Remove the top back panel to expose the switch. Remove the switch knob & mounting bezel and then unscrew the 2 mounting screws from the front. Replace the wires one by one and follow the enclosed directions in the event that this is an upgrade for an older switch. Remount the switch from the front and replace the back panel.

Remove two screws to loosen the ceramic top....prop top open and change part...the part was exactly the same...change wires from one to the other and transfer clamps.....1st grade craft class would have done it in half the time I did......you folks have your parts inventory and description application to a science.....God Bless

First, disconnect electrical power to the stove by turning the main fuse to the off position. Confirm that there is no electrical power in the stove. The ceramic top is held by 10 screws that are closest to the ceramic surface. Other screws hold other parts of the stove and not need to be touched when opening the stove. Once the ceramic surface is off there is access to the burners and the various lights and switches. It is important to determine whether it is the burner that is defective or the switch. Inasmuch as the switch has many moving parts, the switch is more likely to be the defective part. Check the switch by gaining access to the switch connections. There is a metal frame held by two screws on each side in the outside of the stove (same area where the initial 10 screws were removed to separate the ceramic surface). Remove these screws and flip the switch assembly so all the wires and cables are accessible. I checked the switch with a continuity tester and by trial and error determined that there were two connections that in all the remainder three switches had continuity when the switch was in the on position while the suspect switch did not. Replaced the suspect switch by pulling the wires and replacing them in identical positions in the new switch (a smartphone camera became very useful to remind me were exactly each cable's connection was). Restore power by turning the fuse to the on position. Check that the burner lights up. If not, change the burner as well. Same simple procedure of disconnecting and connecting cables to the burner). Make sure to disconnect power before working on the burner. Replace the screws that hold the switch assembly. Replace the ceramic top. Replace the screws. Set stove back in its hole. Reset fuse. Total time: 35 mins. Total cost: Approx $25.00 (switch + delivery). Quoted repair by local appliance repair service: $487.50. No contest. Next project is to fix a leaky water dispenser in the refrigerator.

Remove old stained gasket and replaced with new. Only $57.00!

very easy and clean.