91199009990 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!

I went online and ordered the part after reading other people's repair experiences, confident that I could do it because the part was quite pricey. First, be sure you're circuit breaker to your range is off. Next, open the oven door and locate and remove two screws with a socket, that are just under the top surface which will allow you to lift up the glass top which is actually hinged...no need to pull the range out. Securely prop up the glass surface area and the burners are exposed. With a marker, mark where each color wire goes on the burner you are going to remove and also mark where the two holding brackets are. This way you can reference the locations to connect to the new one. Carefully remove the wires and brackets and install new burner with brackets and connections. Close up the top, replace two screws, turn on breaker, and if there were no other faulty components,it'll work great. P.S Be gentle getting the very snug wires off. Good Luck

Robert did not do the repairs. I did! 70 year old housewife. I watched a Utube video and thought I could certainly handle that. Ordered my part from your site. It came in two days. Burnet was replaced in under 20 minutes by me! Anyone can do this. Super easy, parts just plug in.

Pull the range out from the wall to access the rear of the unit. Turn off power to the range by unplugging from the wall or turning off the breaker.
Remove the large back cover from the oven portion of the range. Locate the two small wires and connector which is located between the two connections for the broiler heating element. Unplug the small connector.
Open the oven door and remove the screw that holds the temperature sensor in place between the broiler heating elements on the inside of the oven. Gently pull the sensor and the wire connector through the hole and discard.
Feed the new connector and wire through the hole from the inside of the oven. Attach the sensor to the oven wall with the screw.
Go to the back of the unit and make sure that no insulation has gotten into the oven space. Re-route the new wire being careful not to let it touch the contacts for the broiler heating element. Reconnect the wires to the connector and replace the back cover of the oven.
Plug in the range or turn on the circuit breaker. Slide the range back into place and re-level the unit. Test the oven to make sure the temperature is accurate and will maintain temperature.

Watched youtube video. Very easy to replace

Just note the wire colors and match them where they go on the new control, remove and replace 7 screws and a zip tie and I was done.

I pulled out the range from the wall unplugged it from the wall then i opened the oven door and removed the two small screws on the front off the range and lifted the glass top and supported it with a 1/2" X 18inc wooden dowel, then i removed the two burner retaining screws with a small Phillips screw driver and removed the wires from the burner,
then i replaced the burner with the new one and reconnected the wires and placed the burner in to the two retaining clips and then tightened the two screws then i removed the wooden dowel and installed the two screws on the front bottom side on the range then i plugged in the range in and tested the burner then put the range back against the wall.

It took a bit of head scratching to remove the oven door. I had read another user saying he'd removed the hinge screws unneccessarily, so I left them alone. I eventually was able to locate the locks on each hinge. Once they were disengaged, it was a simple matter to lift off the door. After that, I removed all the screws (except the hinge screws) and took the door apart. Once it was disassembled, I found two loose triangular pieces, about 1 1/2" long. I later discovered these were spacers for the two top srews. They were placed on end, and the top screws passed through them. All in all, a relatively simple repair, which absolutely amazed my wife, landlord, faily, etc.

Removed the two screws that hold the range top down. Lifted up yhe range top and propped with a stick. Proceeded to mark the wires connected to the old burner so that the new one would be connected correctly. Removed the wires and then the two brackets that hold the burner in place. Removed the old burner and installed the new one. Connected the wires and resecured top to base. Turned on the current and it worked beautifully.

after removing the two screws that are just inside the oven, I propted the top open with the box that the part came in. I drew and labeled the wires as I took them off using a color coding. next I removed the two clips that held the burner in place and marked on the new burner exactly where the clips were attached. Replacing the clips was possibly the hardest part of the whole operation. When you replace the burner, don't forget to replace the insulation pad that is stuck one the metal where the conections are. I missed this and had to reopen the stovetop and slid it on after I was finished. Otherwise it went pretty smooth.

I removed the screws from the underside of the stovetop, lifted up the top, propped it up to keep it from falling (using a large book), and removed the old burner by unscrewing it from the top and removing the wire connections. I then screwed the new burner into the top, and attached the wires back to the burner, dropped the top down (gently and carefully, of course), and screwed the top back down to the rest of the stove. It was fairly quick and painless. Although, putting the stove back into his position was not easy, but that was no fault of the stove!!

Turn off breaker, disconnect electrical wiring, remove cooktop from courter top, turn over , remove switch.

I thought it was the burner thermostat, so I replaced the burner unit. By coincidence, the ceramic outer portion of the burner was cracked in two places, but otherwise intact. That was not the problem, though since the new burner did the same thing as the old one. Then I new it was the Infinite Control Switch, so I ordered it. Replacing it was easy. I turned off the cooktop circuit breaker and made sure no power was going to it. It is powered by 240 volts so you need to be very careful to turn off the power before doing any servicing on it. I then carefully pried up the glass cooktop and lifted it out, so it wouldn't break. By taking off the control knobs, and removing several small Phillips head screws all around the metal cooktop frame and just under the edge of the glass cooktop, I could lift the glass top off from the cooktop, and place it on some newspaper so it didn't get broken. It is important to keep the rest of the cooktop upright. The burners are not fastened down, and only gravity holds them in place. They normally sit on two springloaded pins, one on each side, and the weight of the glasstop pushes them down to their proper setting. So don't mess with them, and make sure each side remains on the two pins after you're done and before putting the glasstop back on. As for the switch, you need to remove two small 1/4 inch metal screws (a socket is very handy for this), one on each side of a metal framework that holds all the switches. After removing that framework, I carefully turned it over and found the correct switch for the burner that wasn't working. In my case, it was the closest right hand burner, which is also the biggest and has the option of having a big, small or both elements turned on, depending on how you turn the control switch. I then carefully pulled off each wire lead, with a needlenose plier to avoid damaging them, and immediately put each wire onto the corresponding same connection on the new switch. Take a close look at the wires on the old switch to make sure you plug them into the same connectors on the new switch. It's pretty straightforward. There may have been one or two small screws holding the switch onto the framework, but I don't recall right now. It was very easy to see how to remove and then reattach it. Then reverse the above steps and reinstall the cooktop, turn on the power and you should be in business!

took bulb out, but new one in lol

ordered over the phone a new temp sensor. Un plug the oven, take off the back, open oven and unscrew the temp sensor, pull the sensor until the elec connector clip comes through so you can unclip the old sensor, clip on the new then pull the line back and re attach the sensor to the ovn. Plug in the oven.
Pretty simple, just hard to work inside the oven. I unclipped the sensor line outside the oven to make sure it would come apart first before I was working inside the oven.