1036427611 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Quick and easy, thanks!

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

At first I tried to remove the element from the top of the oven. I took out the screws with a nut-driver (1/4"). Them I tried to pull the element out slowly so I could unplug it from the power wires. One of the wires pulled off bfore I could get it out. I then pulled the range out from the wall and removed the back from it. THEN I noticed that if you pull the stove away from the wall first and take off the back the wires are right there and easy to take on and off. Then replace the the back panel, plug in the stove and test the element. It will give off a slight odor as the manufacturing coating is burned off.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

Replaced drip pans that the apartment Superintendent had in place with the correct drip pans and now cooking is beautiful again! No more uneven cooking on the stove top.

I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.

Removed burner from each one. removed drip bowl. Inserted new bowl. Replaced burner. Excellent help from order people so I got the correct bowl was irreplacable.

it was hard to figure out the instructions from A switch to B switch to my switch. The first switch was no good the second one was good. prayer book didn't hurt.thank

Removed the burner elements, removed and disposed of old drip pans, cleaned the area, relaced with new drip pans and replaced the burner elements. Verified all burners were level - good as the day it was new!

1)Undid two hex nuts holding broiler element in place. 2)Slipped fasteners off pegs connecting element to oven. 3)Simply reversed the process, when installing new element.

Pulled out old with pliers. Twisted new clips in per instructions.

Good directions

The original controls were different for the small burners and the large burners. The replacement part fits all. Before removing wires, pay attention to writing on new and old control and replace 1 at a time. The hardest part was being sure to cut the knob stem to the correct length. Control works well.

This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.