79075353313 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Very easy just had to pull the wire up that holds it secure.

in the bottom of the oven when I was looking to see what was going on. My husband did the repair just as the video described. I suspect this part honeycomb round maybe ceramic piece goes over where the heat is vented from the oven. Where do I get another one of these and how does it attach in the oven-under the burner. HELP I tried to look on the schematics and did not see anything. The repair went fine, except when we turned everything back on it did not work. Then my husband remembered he forgot to plug the new part IN. Once plugged in it is working fine. Thanks

Removed 4 screws on back cover removed 1 screw holding probe and unplugged the probe took it out and installed new probe.

The youtube video clearly described how to remove the back panel and how to replace the probe.
The repair took maybe 20 minutes to complete and 1/2 of that time was spent cleaning behind and underneath the range!
Range is working perfectly now!

I was able to find the most common reason for my oven's symptom by searching online. I searched for the part I needed but was not confident that I would get the correct part until I looked on partselect.com. After verifying the part number with my owners manual and looking at the video on their website, I decided to order. PartSelect shipped the part as expected, and I was able to install it in less than 30 minutes. The only tool needed for installation was a nut driver. My oven is now working like new.

Many thanks to PartSelect for their comprehensive website and fine service.

I changed the temperature sensor and tried again. The stove again went on temp runaway and it was suggested to replace control board which is out of stock.
I will have to toss out this stove and buy new as you and no else has this part.

removed screws from back cover then pulled elect. plug apart. removed screw pulled out probe installed new probe put cover back on very easy only problem was that it said that 88% of time would fix the problem. will this time it didn't work oven still over heating.

Unplugged range; removed back cover; removed old oven probe. Installed new probe; replaced cover; connected power and turned on range - that simple. My only issue was probe was shipped in bubble rap and unit was slightly damaged (bent). Once straightened, the probe could be installed. Probe should have been shipped in sturdy cardboard cylinder or box. I called customer service, they were very nice, and noted my feedback on my account in case the unit fails prematurely.

Removed 2 3/16 bolts and burner, set the oblong burner over the orifice and we were all done

New ones fit perfectly. Take a minute to bend the frame straight. Then and I used oversize screws on the replacement parts as the drop had stripped out the screw holes of the frame.

Removed two screws removed and replaced panel.

First we replaced the wiring harness because a multi-meter said it wasn’t getting power. That was only partially true. The wiring harness was burned looking so we just kept it instead of sending it back. When the spark module got here the burner caps were removed and then the wires were noted where they went on the module and then the power and gas were turned off. The spark module was removed and then the stove was tested and we were back in business.

I pulled the oven away from the wall, unplugged the cord, removed the back panel then removed the screw from the old sensor.

Remove two back knurled screws, lift out old bottom, screw in new bottom panel. Removal of oven door (two flip out handles at hinge( makes this a little easier. Our oven did not need any other dis-assembly.

First, I watched a lot of videos on YouTube. All of them were very similar, and had similar repair instructions, doing all the work at the site of the regulator location. The gas supply flex line was easily detached, as well as the line that exited the regulator to feed the stove. The gas inlet nipple, however, was not willing to unscrew. My regulator was held on by Phillips head sheet metal screws, which were easy enough to unscrew, so I just removed the regulator, still attached to the gas connection nipple. I went to my shop and placed the regulator in a vise, careful to clamp either end, not the regulator valve itself, and used a deep socket over the nipple, and had to use a Breaker Bar to loosen the nipple. I cleaned the nipple where Pipe Dope had been used, and applied new sealant, then screwed it back on the the Regulator, once again using the socket and bar. Then I threaded the new regulator body with the sheet metal screws while it was clamped in the vise. (The new regulator was not threaded, and I had to use vise grips to hold the screws while turning them in) After that, installation of the new regulator was relatively easy. I wish Frigidaire had used hex head screws instead of the Phillips. After install, range worked perfectly. PartSelect delivered correct part in a timely manner.