36291201001 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Was a piece of cake removed 2 screws, pulled element out. Pulled the wires ooff the old unit and put them on new unit and screwed it back in.

First we removed the screws inside the oven. Next, the oven backing was removed by unscrewing one side and one bottom bolt which exposed the clips for the burner. The clips were removed from the old burner. The old burner was pulled through the fiberglass protection and out of the oven. The new burner was inserted into the oven and the prongs were pushed through the fiberglass protection. The screws inside the oven were reattached. The clips were attached on the outside of the oven. The backing was slid into the right holding piece and the bolts on the left and bottom were attached.

This one is a really easy fix as I only had to plug the burner element into the slot. I was very pleased with the speed of the order and would order again if I need parts.

Thanks,
Cheryl

I have a GE Profile oven and the heating element on the bottom broke in two. I found the part on your website very easily. It was easy to see that I had the correct part. I ordered the new element and it came in about three days. I easily took off the old element, but I was really surprised because the new one didn't fit. The heating element itself was the correct size, but the holes didn't quite match up. As a matter of fact I had to take some tin snips and expand the hole at the back of the oven. That was the only hard part, but it was really difficult to lean in that far without putting too much weight on the door. Anyway, I opened the hole about an inch more, plugged it in, and now it works perfectly!

Difficulty was in determining the right model number and part number of a switch. Noted that the left front burner came on when the switch for the left back burner was turned on. By inspection I found the left front burner switch had become faulty by actually hearing an electric arc in the switch and smelling the oder in the switch. With help from the person I called I was able to determine that the Model Number on the actual stove was wrong. It had an extra 0 between the W and F which she said was a common error in the GE model number. I then gave the switch number I found on the switch to the contact person and she was able to verify the right part number. It was relatively easy to replace the switch by taking off the back upper plate then taking off two screws that held the switch to the stove. The part came quite quickly once ordered. Sears repair wanted $75 just to diagnose then the cost of the part. I got the switch for $69.

Just pulled old coil out of the plug. Replaced drip bowl and inserted new coil in. No problem.

Turned off circuit breaker to stove, remove top panel and then the old control module and installed replacement. Power back on and top panel reinstalled. Easy!!! And Everything works like new!!!

Turned off circuit breaker, removed screws holding old element in with nut drivers, pulled out old element about 3-4" to reach terminals connected to back of element, removed spade lug terminals with needle nose pliers. Reconnected terminals to new element and screwed new element in place with nut drivers. Turned on circuit breaker and oven. New element works perfectly. Took about 8-10 minutes. Very easy to do.

Replaced clock/timer from Part Select. Direct replacement and new unit works great.

Disconnected the plug from the receptacle; removed the 2 screws holding the element in place at the rear of the oven; removed the support bracket at the front (also 2 screws); removed the panel on the back of the range; pulled the wire clips off the element (had to replace one of them); slid the new element in place; reconnected the wires and fastened the element in place; reattached the support bracket and rear panel ... With the assistance of my wife (extra hands) this was an easy job!

easy, less then 15 min. but take off door first makes alot easier. and don't forget to unplug, like i did. just a few sparks but no damage thank god.

Easily glide in.

Remove lower drawer and contents. Unplug unit. Tilt range on its back for easy access. Tie open oven door to forward legs with sturdy rope. Use small socket to remove 2 back screws and 2 forward element hanger screws. Detach broiler element connections from wire clips(2). Insert new element, attach 2 new connections to clips first. Install back socket screws. Install front socket screws for element hanger. Slide in oven shelves. Release oven door rope. Lift range to normal position. Replace lower drawer. Plug 220 in. Test oven element then broiler.

Started off with a philips screw driver,and a cold beer.Removed the cover for the clock/timer. Removed the clock with a plain screw driver.Reversed the order of removal including another cold beer.Just think,I could become a repairman,with enough cold beer.

Watched video,and used it as guideline.Biggest problem was removing tape from old wires.