20214 (1988) Kenmore Range - Instructions

Unscrew the two screws. Pull the element out a few inches. Unclip the wires by pulling them apart. When we did this the wires retracted back into the opening. It was difficult to reach them and pull them back out. Be sure to hold the wires or clip something on them to hold them out till you can attach the new element. Attach the new element wires and screw the plate back on.

Removed two nut screws (accessed with oven door open) with nutdriver, panel dropped out. Transferred wiring one-by-one to new switch, removed old switch with allen wrench, installed new switch, replaced panel. Done! However, the problem is not corrected and all other possibilities have been explored with no solution in site. Ideas needed.

Easy job. Anybody can do it. This replacement is accessed from inside the oven.

1. Remove the two Phillips sheet metal screws that attach the backing element plate to the back wall of the stove.
2. Carefully and slowly pull out the element as far as you can to expose the two Faston connectors and wire.
3. While holding the heating wire exiting the baking element with the needle nose pliers, carefully remove each female Faston connector.
4. Installation of the new heating element is the reverse of above. I highly recommend that you use the needle nose pliers to hold the heating wire behind the male (spade) Faston connector while installing the female connector. This will prevent bending of the heating wire.
5. I also recommend turning on the new baking element to a high temperature for about 10 minutes with the door partially open to get rid of the new heating element odor before you bake any food.

I tilted the unit back enough to scew the new legs into the threaded holes.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.

This same repair 2 years ago thru a Factory repair "professional" had cost $200. My cost $42.00!! Cost to replace the entire range...$1700.00.

Un screwed the two screws in the downdraft section enough to release the unit that holds the surface burner controls.Then removed the control nob, unscrewed the two screws that holds the switch in the unit, removed the wires, making sure the color of the wires were placed on the same contact point. Put it back together and it worked
fine.Of course I did shut off the power before starting any of the above

We cut off the electricity to the stove before touching anything. We removed the 2 screws on the plate that is mounted to the inner wall of the oven. Then we pulled the element out 2-3 inches and disconnected the wires. We connected the wires on the new bake element and pushed it into place, inserted the screws and DONE!

The bigger part of the "repair" was the clean up of the fire extinguisher residue inside the oven due to the fire.

I raised the top of my Whirlpool Continuous Cleaning Canning Oven, then had to unscrew 3 screws and a lock nut, then raise top about 4 inches, so I could put my hand inside to unplug the wires to the switch, and push it through the hole in front, of oven. Then put the new switch through hole and plug in new switch. Then screw down top; and close lid. Part #866294

easy enough. Before you start, draw a picture of where the wires go on the old switch ( or take a picture).

Removing the oven door and several layers of metal to get to the seal, is a fairly easy process. Our door had three different fasteners, torx head screws to remove the door, a very small flat head screwdriver to remove the chrome door trim screws, and a nut driver to remove the inner panels and glass. The replacement seal is over-large and must be trimmed. Care should be taken when fitting the integrated wire. Bending at the corners only, makes assembly much easier. Reassembly is the reverse of diassembly. Care must be taken that the seal wire hasn't popped out of it's seat when the cover is installed. This is the most time-consuming and frustrating part of the repair. Patience is paramount to get a good fit. Because I had made an odd bend in it, about one inch of wire was not properly seated after the cover was seated and tightened down. I was able to gently squeeze it into the seat with a flat tip screwdriver without removing any screws. The final problem area is reinstalling the door. Although two people would be helpful to accomplish this Task, I was able to accomplish it with the aid of a three foot piece of 2x4. By wedging the piece of lumber behind both hinges, they were held open under tension to allow slipping the door on. Once partially installed, the 2x4 can be removed and the door seated. Hope this helps.

Had to remove the glass top and the control panel and the panel bracket then use angled needle nosed pliers to compress the retainers then pull the switch from the inside of the oven

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.

Removed the door removed 2 inner panels Installed and reassembled A Cake Walk NOTE be careful not to strip threads

Replaced the control.

I removed the back of the stove for easy access to the wiring (three hex head screws) and removed the two wire leads. Then I began to remove the mounting screws from the inside of the oven, the first three screws came out fine the last one was so tight that I had to resort to vise grip pliers. Jenn-Air should have used hex head screws instead of phillips head inside the oven. Finally after about 15 minutes the last screw came out. I installed the new element, reinstalled the screws and wires. Then I replaced the back and tested. Total about 45 minutes.