Models > 20214

20214 (1988) Kenmore Range

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Diagrams for 20214

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$8.04
Sold individually. Lock washers are used with screws when vibration from an appliance may cause the screw to loosen. Lock washers are also used in the electrical components of an appliance to ensure ...
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This electric oven bake element with screw in wire terminals is 19 inches wide. It has a terminal depth of three inches and a total element length of nineteen inches. This element is intended for use ...
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The top of this part is now black.
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Sold individually.
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This oven door seal prevents heat from escaping the oven cavity when in use.
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This cartridge receptacle is almost four inches long. It is white in color and is made of ceramic.
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$8.04
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This is a burner cartridge terminal block for your range/cooktop. If you are having trouble with your elements heating up, this part may need to be replaced. It does not come with spades or wiring. Th...
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This clock knob is less than an inch long. It is all black in color and is made of plastic. This knob will accept a 'D' shaped shaft.
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This part includes 2 panes of glass enclosed in a metal frame. It's the innermost window for your oven door.
Special Order
$13.17
This screw is sold individually.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 20214

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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Oven not heating evenly
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Will Not Start
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Oven is too hot
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Touchpad does not respond
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Customer:
James H from Oxford, NY
Parts Used:
W11120791
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner had one temperature--hot, regardless of setting
1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control.
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.

(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)

Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
105 of 119 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Paul from Mickleton, NJ
Parts Used:
WPY702338
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
The oven door seal was ripped and was leaking.
The oven seal replacement was very straight forward. Two screws held the door to the arms coming from the oven. I slid the door up off the arm and moved it to a workbench. This whole process should take about 15 minutes, a little longer if your unit is older and you want to clean as you go. Mine was fairly dirty and I gave it a cleani ng as I removed parts. Unscrew all screws on the outer frame of the door, including two small ones on the side. Remove the outer frame and then the glass front and set them aside. A few more screws to remove the glass from the inner door, and even more on the remaining part of the door. You should also remove the screws holding the tiny brackets as well to release the portion that holds the oven seal in place. This is very straightforward, just keep pulling screws out until you can remove the old seal.

Once the old seal is out, insert the new one using the wire embedded in the seal as your guide...the gap in the seal goes to the bottom. Put everything back together and re-install the door. My door hinges were spring loaded and took a little effort to move them down so the door can be slipped on. This is a two person job since the hinges do not lock in place, they spring right back up flush with the oven and you cannot install the door. Re-install the two set screws holding the door to the hinges and you are done!

With the new seal in place, it felt a little puffy and the door did not seem to close as flush as it used to. This makes sense since the seal is new. I kept the door locked (like you would to use the oven cleaning cycle). I even kept it partially locked during cooking.

Frankly, the hardest part was the cleanup of nasty grease and dirt that built up over the past decade or so.

Best of luck!
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Customer:
Randall from Mohnton, PA
Parts Used:
W11120791
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner Control not Functioning
Simple Repair!
Turn off Power
Remove four screws under panel.
Remove old burner knob.
Drop Burner Panel from range
Remove 5 wire connectors from old burner control
with pliers
Remove 2 screws that held burner control to range
panel
Install new burner control
Rplace two screws to burner control
Replace 5 wire connectors to new burner control
Replace 4 screw under panel
Replace knob to new burner control
Turn on electricity
Made wife happy!
26 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
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