9119851191 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Turned the range/oven off at the breaker box. Pulled all the racks out. Unscrewed two screws holding lower heating element in. Pulled the heating element out to expose connections. Unhooked connections, plugged in new element. Replaced the screws. Turned breaker back one. Pretty simple!

In order to determine what was wrong with the oven I used a voltage meter to determine if power was coming to the element in the first place. Be careful to set your meter at least 500 ACV, as the oven is operating at 240V. Remove the two screws that hold the element in place and carefully pull it out of the side of the oven. Turn on the bake element in the upper oven and place your test leads to either side of the connection leads. If you get a reading of 240Volts plus or minus you will know for sure the element is bad.
Turn off the oven, or even better turn off the circuit breaker to your stove.
There are two leads to the element that are held in place by self taping screws. If you have the same luck I have they will be corroded together. Carefully use long nose pliers to hold steady while gently applying pressure. If necessary use liquid wrench. When separated put together in the reverse order as how you took it apart.

scissors and opened bag. determined that all three knobs were identical. aligned slots on each knob with flanges on each shaft.
snapped each knob into place.
Did a happy dance of empowerment around the kitchen. ( knobs had been broken for at least 5 years).
used timer to avoid burning christmas cookies.
Have a Merry one!!!

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR UNTIL THE RANGE IS UNPLUGGED AND THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS OFF!!!!!!

Very easy repair, but, either there is a minor amount of current flowing through the element at all times, or the off switch wasn't working when I started. didn't turn the breaker off, after I removed the nuts, as I was pulling the element to reveal the terminals, the terminals arc'd on the oven wall. BIG SPARKS!

After I turned the breaker off and started again. No problems.

Snapped in the clip

This was so easy I should be a repairman! Turned off power at the breaker, used socket to unscrew two hex head screws, pulled out element slowly from the back of oven wall - enough to expose the wires about 3". Used pliers to remove clips from terminals, put new element in, pushed on new terminal clips, fed wires and terminals back through the two holes, replaced the hex head screws, turned breaker on and wallah! My wife was happy! That's a good thing.

I was able to remove the heating element but in the process one of the wires fell behind the back wall of the oven so I needed a little help getting it out. It was my first time working with electricity. If this didn't happen the repair would have been quit easy. The instructions were great.

With the parts we received from Parts Select I took the frame off the upper oven (about 8 screws), screwed in the new striker parts and closer, replaced the frame and tried the oven door. It closed beautifully, the repair was totally successful. Thanks for the parts and the quick delivery. At the local GE store they didn't think they could order the parts and if they could, it would cost about $75.00. The Parts Select parts cost about $25.00 and the repair was done in less than 1/2 hour! Thanks!!

I used a socket set to remove broiler element. It was stiff after so many years, but no problem. All was going well until I pulled too hard on the old element(I'd recommend jiggling if stuck, not yanking) & 1 of the 2 connectors pulled loose & fell behind the back. After my initial panic, I summoned my courage, unscrewed the coverings in the upper back of the stove, found the lost connection, pushed the new element ends through the holes from inside the oven (easiest way to hook it up at this point), plugged it in from the back, pushed it back thru into place inside the oven, reattached everything (front & back), & it worked PERFECTLY! Had I not made a mess of it, it would have taken approx. 5-10 minutes. As it was, it took approx. 15 minutes. EASY!

Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]

Simply inserted the clip into the hole in the oven. It took less than 20 seconds. :D

Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or so and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.

remove two screws slide out. slide new one in. put two screws back. done.