20234 (1988) Kenmore Range - Instructions

I was told that we needed a new stove at an estimated cost of $3900. I decided to google the parts that were not working after I was able to identify the Part number & model. I was first advised to look at Lowes, which I did and was not successful. I did another web search the Part Select site came up. At first I was able to find the part, but the color. A simple phone call and a helpful (Human) voice at the other end gave me a new model number and in less than 5 minutes I had made my order. Total cost $368.00 including shipping and handling. My stove is working like new. Total savings $3500 and change. Satisfaction 100%. I have placed the web site in the must have category.

Removed the blower assy. Removed the motor. installed the new motor. Reassembled the blower assy. The problem I had was getting the proper clearance for the squirrel cage blower fan to rotate without rubbing on something. I had to make shims for the mounting flanges of the housing to get it to work. Took a lot of head scratching.

1. Lifted out the old burner cartridges
2. Opened the box from PartSelect
3. Inserted the new burner cartridges

It's plug and play. No tools required !

when the new cartridges came in all I did was unplug the old and plug in the new and I had a new stove

Since the motor is larger than the original, remove metal flange; shim one side of housing with 3 washers per screw and reseal..simple! Works great.

Serviceman took out broken glass by removing door and separating front of door from back of door. He carefully removed all broken glass Then replaced with new glass and fastened door together . He did repair in 20 minutes. Oven is like new. Thank you very much for still stocking this part that allows me to keep my oven repaired.

My spouse calls me Mr. Breakit--and she's right. I was delighted to read others' accounts that this was easy, but I wasn't sure. When the part arrived, we had 1 hour before company arrived. I took two screws out of the plate (tight--I had to apply a lot of torque), slid the old piece out, attached the new piece, put the screws back in. Voila! (Oh, yeh, do remember to turn the juice off.) We were "cooking" in about ten minutes. So easy a caveman could do it. And I did.

"First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and removed the two wires." from the burned out element. I plugged in the new element, reinstalled the new element and, 10 minutes start to finish, the oven heats again.
So easy even I can do it. !!!

Really simple just had to remove the old part by simply pulling it out of the socket and then insert the new cartridge. It looks great it was shipped in a matter of days I was surprised to get it so soon.

Unplugged unit,cleaned stove and replaced new cartridge.

blower wheel was caked with dried grease clumps; replaced blower wheel, urethan foam and 3 motor isolators; blower/fan no longer vibrating cooktop.

Opened the oven door and locked the spring hinges in the opened position with two 10p nails. Removed the oven door. I dismantled the component parts of the door. I then removed and replaced the broken glass unit,reassembled the door, slid the door onto the hinges, tightened two screws to lock the door in place, removed the 10p nails, closed the door----- and that was it. Less than one hour. The job was accomplished using only a Phillips screwdriver.

First Inserted 2x4x 36" length of wood behind the spring loaded door hinges to ease removing the oven door as I worked alone (this was recommended in a previous post and was essential when working alone, TY). Removed 2 retaining screws on the interior side of the door at the hinge locations. Slid the door up an off the hinges, moved door to a cloth pad protected work bench. Took the door and glass panels apart removing all the related screws, retaining clips; taking note of screws, retaining clip and panel locations for reassembly. Removed the insulation, removed the glass window pack, and removed of all rust fragments (dust) between the 2 glass window panels. The glass window pack metal molding retainer, on the oven interior side of the glass window had completely rusted away. Removed the existing oven door gasket. Cleaned the glass door window pack, and interior side of the oven door surface. Installed the new gasket, which fit very well. Tightened the loose door handle screws. Reassembled in reverse order all door components noted above, and replaced the door onto the hinges, fastened the 2 door hinge screws, removed the 2x4x36" wedge holding the hinges in the open position, and closed the door. Job complete. Thanks to previously posted directions as a good guide. Hope this helps as well.

Fortunate to have the replacement parts available.
Wish a replacement door window pack was available, as the double glass, metal edge seal is deteriorating, and the metal molding retainer that held the glass in place is completely rusted away on the oven side of the existing window pack. Plan to find heat resistant caulk to seal the glass in the door, in lieu of the metal molding glass retainer.

Much to my horror, what was described as a simple, 15-minute replacement, took 3 days! In order to replace the oven door gasket, I had to disassemble the entire door. Every photo I saw of the gasket showed it as a flexible part: gently pull out the old one and push in the new. What I received in my order had a frame. In order to replace it, I needed to unscrew the door parts. Unfortunately, I made a few rookie errors, primarily because I kept thinking the next screw would release the gasket frame. So I neglected to keep track of the screws I removed, and I didn’t take any photos!
I must have used half a roll of masking tape to keep parts together; I did not have 5 hands! When I released everything and nestled in the frame, I had even more trouble replacing all the screws I took out. The majority of holes did not line up. So I just did the best I could, put in as many screws as I could. But after three days of working, I finally finished. It all held together, and the door did what it was designed to do. Really a repair horror. And I am not an incompetent novice!

Using exploded view and previous customers' comments, I disassembled the door. It was primarily a matter of finding all the screws. I recommend taking the door off first (I didn't), but watch your fingers. The hinges have very, very strong springs and you can hurt your or your helper's fingers if you're not prepared. The hardest part was keeping all the insulation in place while your're installing the assembly. I also replaced the gasket. That takes four hands, two to hold the gasket in place and two to reinstall the window assembly. To put the door back on the hinges, I pulled them out from the door at a 45-degree angle (takes some effort), put screwdrivers through holes in the hinges, and guided (with help) the door back on.