D-100 Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

I removed the two screws that held the electrical
switch control. Then I raised the control upward an tilted it sideways an jumped the two terminals with a screwdriver. then i knew the switch was bad. So then i removed the two pail nuts that held the switch to the switch control an removed the old switch. Then installed the new switch in the reverse proscess. This was fairly easy

Our oven is at least 30 years old and the parts are not even available through the manufacture anymore. A new stove would cost well over $1000.00. Jen airr is the only down draft stove available. So the repair was much more affordable that the alturnative. So thank you to part select for providing this service. The repair was simple. This is coming from a 36 year old female who has been around electrical work, but never done any myself. My husband was out of town and I felt I could do the job. I first made sure I had another adult present. I turned off the power to the oven. I then removed the visible screws to the element plate (2 on top and 1 in lower middle). I then pulled the element out enough to get behind the plate and feel the screws that were connecting the wires to the element/ground. Again 3 total. The oven space is very small and difficult to work in. I had to do a lot by feel. Once the old element was free I just exchanged it for the new one and reversed the process, making sure all the wires were tight. I then turned the power back on. Turned the oven on, it smoked lightly for a moment and turned red hot. Over all it was extreemly simple.

-turned off power to stove
-lift off grill cover to downdraft
-remove 2 screws
-cut retaining clips with wire cutters
-remove old switch
-replace with new switch and push on new retaining clips
-remove and replace wires
-replace covers
-turn power back on

Made sure the circuit breaker was off. Labeled the wires and then disconnected them. Removed the old switch.
Ordered the part using the diagram on-line, very easy to identify part and order it. Part arrived earlier than expected using standard shipping.
Reconnected wires using labels taped on the wires. Turned on the breaker and it worked.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I did a continuity test and determined the old element was bad - ordered the new one and put back the screws. All done!

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I had to use a mirror and flashlights to see in the back of the oven to replace the screws in the new element. It was very close quarters and difficult to see behind element plate.

Truned off power at circuit breaker box. Removed two screws to access the control panel wiring. Removed several connections to allow to pull wiring harness out for access. Removed lock nuts with combination of needle nose pliers and box wrenches. (it was difficult to find a size fit since nuts were distorted. Pulled old switch out. Inserted new one and new lock nuts. Reconnected loose wires and replaced housing. Turned on power and tested. All was well.

First remove front oven door panel screws, then attach with 2 screws new handle part from inside door panel, reattach outer screws and job complete.

The downdraft fan was not running, and there was a terrible smell. I jiggled the rocker switch and the fan ran again, then another arc and the breaker popped, so there was no more power to the unit. I opened the panel under the stove to get at the schematic to get a partnumber. Then I opened the switch cluster using a screwdriver,revealing a black burnt switch, I pulled the terminals off with a plier, then used the nut driver to remove the switch. I ordered a new switch but had to settle for a Maytag. This switch looked close enough to the original. When I got the new part I only had to file the mounting holes a little bit. Switch went in nice and terminals back, closed the cluster, braker back on, and voila the rocker switch turns the fan on/off again. What took me some time was to get the crud out that had seeped into the switch cluster. Submitted by Aedgard de Boer

First turn the power to the cooktop/fan switch panel off. Next remove the knobs used to adjust the temp of the cooking burners. Next remove the vent grill cover of the cooktop. Remove the two screws on the end of the box which houses the fan switch and burner controls. Slide box back and lift the box up. This exposes the fan swithch and burner control wiring. Remove the two wires connected to the fan switch. Remove the two self-locking washers from the two posts which hold the fan switch in place. A screwdriver works well to pry these off. Slide the fan switch assembly out. Slide the new fan switch in place over the two posts (one on each end) to align the switch. Put the self-locking washers which are packaged with the new fan switch on the posts. These can be difficult and a deep-set socket which is slightly smaller that the washers can be used to push them on. Next put the wires to the fan switch assembly on. At this point I temporarily turned the power on to test the fan switch, being careful not to touch any of the wires. If the fan operates properly, turn the power back off. Then replace the box which holds the fan switch and burner controls. Replace the two screws which hold the box in place. Replace the vent grill cover and the temp control knob tops. Turn on the power.

Had to use a little mirror to get it on not a big problem.

I turned the breaker to the appliance off in the breaker box. Took a mirror and a flashlight to figure out what type of tools I needed. Turned out all that was needed was a phillips screw driver and a pair of vicegrips as the front mounting screws were in pretty tight. Disconnected the element mounting plate, pulled the element forward just a few inches to where I could get to the wire connectors and unscrewed them. Connected the wires to the new element, pushed it back into place and refastened the front mounting plate. Turned the power back on to the oven at the breaker box and turned the oven on the check the element and it worked.

The oven on the 40 year old JennAir range stopped heating. It took more time to locate the model number D120 and conduct part/price search than the time it took to install the correct oven bake element from PartSelect! We read all the comments posted by others. We did not remove oven door. The old element had only 2 screws instead of the 3 reported by many. We followed the sequence--Power off at box; unscrew old element; pull out about 3 inches; disconnect wiring; used telescoping mirror to assist; connect wiring to new element; position new element; install 2 new screws; turn on power; turn on oven -- SUCCESS -- heating better than before. Thank you PartSelect.

Pulled out the old one-couldn't find it ANYWHERE that was a comparable match except for partselect. shut off breaker to oven-put in the new one-hard to reach in due to limited space and hard to see due to sticking your head in an oven.used a mirror/flashlight to see behind element to unscrew and screw it back in.Other than space restriction and light-pretty easy. Works great! Thanks for HAVING the part!! :)

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the element out about 2 inches & disconnected the two wires, Then I removed the ground wire. I then wired in the new element ( this was the only tough part of the process, because I had a very tight space to work in- less than 2 inches.