JES9900BAS20 Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Just a couple of minutes to left off the cover grid, left out the old filter and drop in the new one.

Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.

Turned the breaker off, I removed 2 screws securing the range top to the range, opened the top and secured it in the up position, Removed the 2 screws securing the element ,one at a time I swapped the quick connectors from the old element to the new and repeated the process in reverse. I save over $100.00 in labor, plus most companies get you for a trip charge. It was easy!!

turned off power
removed ceran top from cabinet
removed element
installed new element
replaced top
powered up and was done

Thermal switch is integral to element and can not be changed, must replace entire element.

Turn off power. Removed front two screws above oven door jamb and lifted the top. Removed the bracket that holds the element against the glass top and removed the element. Moved brackets from old element to new one, aligning to same numerical position and then moved wiring to new element. Slide new element under bracket and reinstalled single screw. Replaced top and screwed down. Turn on power and test .

Some small spice bottles fell out of the cabinet above the stove and one of them cracked the glass top. The model number of the range was underneath, on the cross member between the right front and rear legs. Took a while to find that.

Replacing the top was relatively easy. Three screws on the left side and three on the right side, two in the back. Three wire harnesses to disconnect and reconnect, but they snapped apart easily and could only connect back one way, so no worries. Each of the four burners was attached to the underneath side of the stove top, held in place with two screws, so it was simple to transfer them from the old top to the new one. I paid attention to "center" each of them within the circular openings in the metal framework underneath the stove top.

When I say screws, they were not philips or slotted, they were actually 1/4 inch hex head lag screws, so you need a hex driver or 1/4 inch socket.

Moving the appliance out of its slot in the counter was the challenging part. It was screwed to the floor with two long screws, one right through the model number label, which fortunately I could still read. The downdraft fan motor was screwed to the floor underneath the range. I hoped not to to move it or disconnect its flexible venting and luckily I didn't have to. I pulled the stove out only five or six inches, and then I lifted it upwards with the prybar and slid a few small 2x4 blocks underneath, raising it just enough to get to the screws that held on the top.

After installing the top, I removed the blocks to lower the stove back down, slid it back into the opening, and put the two long screws back into the floor to hold it in place. Some stoves might not be screwed to the floor. Mine was only because it barely covers the opening in the counter and if it got knocked around even a little bit, it would expose the opening and maybe even risk chipping or cracking the glass top against the ceramic tiles of the counter top.

Took maybe 45 minutes from start to finish. I worked slowly and carefully to avoid damaging the new top, especially while putting the stove back into place.

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

Just placed it at the filter location. Liked the ring feature on the filter for ease of removal for cleaning. My previous ones didn't have such feature. Thank you for filling my order. I bought an extra filter for the future. I'm a big user of my Jenn-Air range. I may soon be needing to replace my griddle. Will be contacting your company then.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.

First removed the old gasket using a needle-nose pliers. Then placed new gasket by inserting the little clips on the gasket. Took 5 minutes. Great instructions from Repair Forum.

Bought new element and installed. Very simple. Used phillips
screw driver.

This is fairly easy for anyone to do. First I opened up the front (silver part) of the oven door by removing the screws at the top and the bottom. Then I kept on removing the various layers of glass... the 2 outside ones are removed by removing their respective screws and then you get to the inner-most. These 2 inner ones are in a frame that holds them together. I removed the large silver frame that holds the insulation and the 2-glass-frame in it. Just remove the screws and then tilt the insulation frame out a bit to remove the glass frame. You can tilt the entire insulation holder out but the insulation is soft and it starts to fall off. Just tilting it enough worked for me. Then I opened up the glass frame from one end, removed the left-over broken piece of the old glass pane and installed the new one in. Then reassemble. The entire process is very easy - but you will need another person for a few minutes when you remove /reinstall the glass frame inside the insulation holder. You would just need a little help holding everything... nothing technical. I would rate the repair technicality at 4 or 5/10. It could even be a 3 if there were less steps involved. Good luck! By the way, Amana/Maytag wanted $70 or so for the glass and then the repair fee. I got the part here for about $50.

Unplug range and remove back panel (4 screws) unplug top burner plugs (2). Open oven door and remove 2 screws from under front of top. Pull top out and up to unhook from back. Remove top and lay cardboard on top of range. Flip over the ranges glass top unit and lay on cardboard. Remove screws from steel bottom and remove from top. Flip over steel bottom with burners attached. Remove attaching clips for burner and unscrew them from the burner then reinstall in new burner in the same place as old burner. Lay new burner on top of old burner and remove one wire at a time, transfering it to the matching plug on the new burner. When wiring is done remove old burner and attach 2 clips to steel backing plate. Vacuum off the glass top and reinstall the steel bottom to the glass top. Flip over the top, remove cardboard and slide top into back of range top and lower into place. Attach 2 screws under front. Reattach the tops plugs at the rear and reattach the back panel. Plug in range and slide back into place. Test units and all other burners. Done...

I simply lifted off the grille in the center of the stove, pulled out the old filter and dropped the new one in. It sits at an angle (right side down, left side up) rather than slotting in to a particular spot.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.