JGS9900CDF01 Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

I repair it by shutting off the gas. removing the back panel of the stove . unplug the electrical sensor cord to the igniter. Then replace with new one.

replaced heat sensor

I removed all the screws that held the trim and inner frame to the outside window unit first. Then, I removed a protective glass from over the two inner panes. Next after removing the frame that held the two inner glass panes together, I took the broken inner glass pane out and replaced it with the new one. Then basically I just retraced my steps and had the door put back together in about 45 minutes. You just need to pay close attention to your disassembly so that you are able to put the pieces back together quickly.

The entire "project" took me less than 3 minutes, and required no tools at all! First, the saleswoman over the phone pointed me to the correct product for my problem ($30 less than what I thought I needed), and it arrived at my home within 4 days. Then, it was just a matter of pulling off the old gasket, and snapping the new one in place! Simple!

Removed the gas deflector; unscrewed the burner body; pulled off the ignition wire; unscrewed the bad electrode; screwed in the replacement electrode; reversed the steps. Voila! Perfect operation once again. My one mistake? Ordered the wrong electrode initially. Make sure you get the right part the first time around.

Hired a pro. Parts are difficult to get on a timely basis today , if at all. Screw up this repair by damaging the outer " black glass " and you buy a new stove. It took three weeks to get my replacement glass even though PS said the part was being sent within a day of the order. Even so , I am am happy to have gotten it , and will continue to use the company.

Removed the two fastening screws with a small square head screwdriver,lifted the burner head disconnected wire from damaged electrode. To install just reversed the steps,total time less than ten minutes.

I located the temp sensor (top left). Removed the 2x Phillips screws and slide the wire out until the plug is thru the opening taking care not to pull to hard as to damage the end that you not going to replace. To install plug it in and push the wire thru and secure with 2x Phillip screws.

Door was removed very easily. Outside trim pieces were removed. The rest came apart like a simple puzzle. Inside glass is very easily accessed. Upon assembling, time was well under an hour. Shipping was fantastic and I saved close to 200dollars between a service call and a repair.

I thought the part might not be available. Ordered the part from PartSelect. Couldn't have been easier.

To replace the igniter, I removed the oven door, all racks, the cover for the burner element and the shield over the burner element. I also removed the back panel to access the wiring. Removal of these elements was easy and took only a couple of minutes. When I tried to remove the old igniter from the bracket supporting it, one of the screws was stripped. Unfortunately I had to drill this screw out and replace it. If I didn't have to do this, both jobs would have taken about 20 minutes combined. After removing the igniter from the bracket, I replaced it, ran the electrical to the back where the wiring harness was and reassembled the components.

As for the upper oven temperature sensor, it took 5 minutes. I removed the two screws holding the sensor in place and pulled it out which exposed the electrical connection. I simply unplugged it, and screwed the new one in its place. I then connected the wiring harness.

Remove the door.
Remove screws
Clear out broken glass. Vacuum out small glass shards.
Clean all glass.
Reattach all parts.
Replace the door.
Smile!

The porcelain cracked on the burner igniter, it wouldn’t spark and light the flame. I got tired of using the fireplace lighter to light this main burner.

If you have to replace your igniter, it should be very very easy. Remove the two torx screws Holding the cast iron burner to the stainless steel top. Pull it up and the wire connected to the igniter should pull through the small hole in the stainless steel top. Turn the cast-iron base over, pull the wire off, and there is a little screw Fastening the igniter to the bottom of the cast-iron Base. Remove the old igniter and screw the new igniter in place, reattach the wire, and screw the base down to the stainless steel top. That’s it, or how it should be. After years of spaghetti water, gravy, etc. boiling over, I was only able to remove one of the torx screws after using some WD-40 and a torch to heat it up. The other screw sheared off at the head. And a little screw holding the igniter in place, the Phillips head was stripped! I had to leave the roof or the igniter in place, break off all the porcelain, and then break the rest of the metal off leading the screw in place. So I had to use my Dremel grinder to remove some of the metal on the new igniter, then use some tinfoil underneath it to stabilize it in place and then tighten the cast-iron base down using only one screw. Even with one screw and using the tinfoil, it is stable and everything works now. This $27 part was a heck of a lot cheaper than paying $5000 for a new range top!

Watch the video. Spot on instructions. Easy peasy.

This should be a 5 min job. Lift off the burner cover, remove two screws to lift of the burner base and then remove a Phillips head screw that hold the burner igniter in place.

Unfortunately, the screw holding the burner igniter was rusted and it could not be loosened. WD-40 did not touch it. I used a stronger penetrant, "Blaster". Still it would not budge. Then I used a small Phillips head screwdriver and a hammer which I used as an impact driver. I twisted the screwdriver slightly to loosen and hit it was a hammer. Then I twisted the screwdriver slightly to tighten and again hit it with a hammer. After the penetrant and a couple of more tries, the rusted screw finally moved!!!

With no rust, this should be an easy 5 minute replacement. The burner now works great!!!